Author: Eric Hörst

Behavior Analysis and Sport Climbing

Posted by Eric Hörst | Aug 1, 2015 | Research

This is a paper by Dr. Richard Fleming and Eric Hörst providing a behavioral analysis of...

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Video: Novel Warm-up Exercise for the Forearm Extensor Muscles

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jul 13, 2015 | Train Body, Training Videos

Antagonist muscle training is an essential part of a sound training-for-climbing program. At...

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Video: Interview with Patrick Matros & Dicki Korb

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jul 1, 2015 | Training Videos

I spent much of June in the Frankenjura (Germany) with my family. Besides climbing on the...

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Podcast #4: The Power of Proprioception

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jun 10, 2015 | Podcasts

Download all the monthly training podcasts by subscribing to the “Training for...

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Effectiveness of “Dangling Arm” and “G-Tox” Recovery Techniques

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jun 2, 2015 | Research, Train Strategy

Key Points and Practical Application: In this study, the “G-tox” active recovery...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

🚨NEW PODCAST DROPPED🚨 Training For Climbing

🚨NEW PODCAST DROPPED🚨
Training For Climbing Podcast with Eric Horst and Thomas Cunningham

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- Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training, Podcast #116 -

Lean into this fast-paced podcast with veteran climber and function medicine specialist, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. Learn how to train more effectively, reduce injury risk, pursue your genetic potential in climbing, and much more in this content-rich episode of the Training For Climbing podcast.

This past December, I recorded an interesting conversation with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. Thomas is a veteran climber (with sends up to 5.14c), husband and father of three, and a medical doctor and researcher.

In recent years, Thomas and I have had a number of lively discussions on topics such as functional medicine, health optimization, effective training for middle-aged climbers, and more. It dawned on me one day: Why not record our conversations and release them as a podcast or video! Today, I share with you the first in, I hope, a series of performance-focused conversations between the two of us.

>>You can listen in and/or watch this interview on the T4C podcast (Apple podcasts and Spotify) or the T4C YouTube video.

👉Link in Our Bio!

💪Hard-training climbers, like Cameron Hörst, k

💪Hard-training climbers, like Cameron Hörst, know the importance of consuming enough dietary protein.

Cameron consumes Supercharged Collagen daily and pre-workout to support tendon and joint health. Post-workout and before going to sleep, Cam drinks Weapons Grade Whey Complex for support strength gains and resilience.

Learn more protocols to push your own limits at training for climbing.com

‼️Winter Training Season and Your QUESTIONS an

‼️Winter Training Season and Your QUESTIONS answered with Coach @eric_horst!

In episode 80 of Training Café, Coach Hörst details the keys for engaging in an effective and personalized winter training program.

Plus, he answers view questions beginning around 26:00 mark.

➡️➡️ Listen to the full episode on YouTube or in @physivantage bio!

• @cam_horst admits that the first few sessions

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@cam_horst admits that the first few sessions of his projects can be a bit uninspired—hanging on nearly every bolt—despite being a pro climber.

But after 15-plus years of climbing and actively studying the “art” of projecting, he has learned that the most important part of projecting is repeated failure. By embracing failure and fine-tuning his sequences, he often sees rapid progress.

Tap the link by @climbingmagazine in our bio to get his tips for sending your project.

✍️ @cam_horst
📸 @dantbaum @eric_horst

If you haven’t already check out the new podcast

If you haven’t already check out the new podcast with Coach Hörst and Alex Megos covering Diet, Nutrition, performance and more! Find it on Megosclimbing on YouTube and Spotify and check out the Trainingforclimbing podcast for similar content!
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Climbers diet and nutrition!

Our latest Podcast with @eric_horst is online on YouTube and Spotify now!!!
Listen to a conversation packed with information about training, nutrition and stories of the good old days.

@tenayaclimbing @patagonia_climb @yetieurope @petzl_official @karpos @scarpa_de @physivantage @frictionlabs @training4climbing

Training while on climbing trips? If you’re in a

Training while on climbing trips? If you’re in a prolonged climbing trip, how do you balance maintaining high end strength/power while also staying fresh and maximizing outdoor days? There are a few circumstances where you can add in some training to stay in top strength. First, If you get a period of poor weather, rather than resting for multiple days, throw in a training session where you can focus on some areas not touched outside (perhaps bouldering, max fingers, isometrics, or power). Another option is at the end of a day where you did not get a full outdoor workout in, and are leading into a rest day. This gives the opportunity to finish your day with a challenging workout before a coming rest day. In this video Alex takes advantage of a rainy day at the Red River Gorge training max finger strength to stay primed for pulling hard on an outdoor project!
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#climb #training #trainingforclimbing #trainingtips #climbing

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training season is coming in hit. Everyone wants to maximize their outdoor sessions but the winter is a great opportunity to build up for what is to come in the spring. Check out the new T4C article and learn how to build a winter routine and what are important focuses Ik following an outdoor stint. Click the link in bio for Transitioning from Cragging to Training!
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#climbing #climb #trainingforclimbing #tranining

Are you at the point in your climbing where you ar

Are you at the point in your climbing where you are ready to begin hangboarding, or want a new protocol to check out? If you’ve been climbing long enough and feel ready to begin a higher end workout you are in the right place. A detailed one arm, and 2 arm protocol is outlined on the Training for Climbing website. So check out the article and the associated videos in the Advanced Hangboarding link in bio!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbing #hangboarding #physivantage

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast d

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast dropped today! In this episode Coach Hörst talks about 13 actionable tactics and strategies that play a huge role in your climbing performance. Ranging from personal control of your body, to timing and mentality. Check out the link in bio to access the podcast or listen wherever you find your episodes.
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#trainingforclimbingpodcast #climb #climbing #training

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