Everything You Need To Know About Finger Tendons and Injury (Well, almost!)

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Eric Hörst recently sat down for an interview with Sara at Send Edition climbing…to discuss dealing with finger pain, appropriate finger training, rehab, nutrition, and more!

“The health of finger tendons and pulleys is such an important part of climbing and, at some point in your climbing experience, you’ll likely start feeling soreness on your fingers or your elbow or shoulder. At that point, you’re at a crossroad – one way is down a path of injury and the other path is recovery. This mini-series was created to help you go down the path of recovery so that you can keep climbing, injury-free.” – Sara Wade

Sara did an excellent job editing down a long interview into three fast-paced, 7-minute videos:

Part 1 – The science of healthy tendons

TAKEAWAYS from Part 1:

0:00 – When you recognize your tendons are sore, what should you do?
1:44 – How tendons grow.
2:37 – When your tendons need extra recovery time
4:17 – Tendinosis and tendonitis
5:10 – How soreness turns into an injury

Part 2 – Exercise and physical training to promote healthy connective tissues

TAKEAWAYS from Part 2:

0:00 – When you recognize your tendons are sore, what should you do?
1:01 – How to get the most out of training on sore tendons
1:22 – Training regimen for safe progression
2:37 – Training tendons off the wall

Part 3 – The role of nutrition in supporting tendon training and improving injury resistance.

TAKEAWAYS from Part 3:

0:00 – When you recognize your tendons are sore, what should you do?
0:38 – Studies about nutrition with muscles
1:40 – Nutrition and connective tendons and ligaments
3:04 – Supplements for tendons
5:18 – Where to get the best collegen for climbers
6:18 – How to get the most out of supplements