Browse: Home / Reducing Risk of Growth Plate Fractures in Youth Climbers

Menu

Skip to content
Header image

Training For Climbing – by Eric HörstLogo

Train Smarter, Climb Harder!

Menu

Skip to content
  • Privacy Policy
  • About
    • Welcome to the New T4C!
    • About T4C
    • Eric’s Biography
    • Eric’s Publishing Resume
    • Eric’s Books (1994 – present)
    • Meet the Hörst Family!
    • Testimonials
    • Terms of Use
    • Contact Eric
  • Knowledge Base
  • Multimedia
  • Buy Books
    • Training for Climbing (3rd edition)
    • The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide
    • Maximum Climbing
    • One Move Too Many
    • How To Climb 5.12
    • Learning to Climb Indoors
    • Rock Climbing: VA/MD/WV
  • Training Tools
    • Lattice “Triple” Hangboard
    • Lattice “Mini Bar”
    • Lattice “Pinch & Crimp” Block
    • Lattice Training – Lifting Pin (aka “Loading Pin”)
    • Lattice Training “Micro Holds”
    • Endless Rope Trainer
  • Research
  • Coaching
  • Links

Reducing Risk of Growth Plate Fractures in Youth Climbers

Posted by Eric Hörst on December 20, 2019 in The Hurt Locker (Injury), Youth Training | 13,257 Views | Leave a response
305 Shares
  • Facebook 302
  • Twitter 0
  • LinkedIn 2
  • Email 1
Cameron Hörst climbing Thanatopsis (8c/5.14a/b) at the Red River Gorge, KY. As a two-sport athlete, Cameron (age 16) takes a four-month break from climbing each autumn to play on his high school (American) football team.

Eight tips for reducing the risk of growth plate fractures in the fingers of youth climbers.

Rock climbing is a wonderful sport for young minds and bodies, and I’m a strong advocate for youngsters giving the sport a try. Recreating in the vertical world develops a wide range of important mental skills, and it’s a wonderful physical workout that builds strength, power, endurance, and flexibility.

What’s more, climbing is a character-shaping activity that teaches youths goal setting, perseverance,  challenging fear,  and the power of will. Finally, as I’m most fond of promoting, rock climbing is a “life sport”! Whereas involvement in many youth sports terminates at the end of junior high or high school, climbing is a rich, diverse activity that can be enjoyed throughout your adult life. You can trust coach Hörst on this one—I began climbing at age 13 and I’m still loving the sport at age 53!

As with any rigorous sport, however, rock climbing presents some physical risks. While the indoor climbing activities that most youths participate in are extraordinarily safe (given proper instruction and adult supervision), there is a growing incidence of epiphyseal fractures (injury to the growth plate in the finger) among adolescents. The increasing focus on hard bouldering, competition climbing, and year-round training have contributed to an alarming increase in growth plate fractures both in the United States and Europe. My colleague, Dr. Volker Schöffl, has been studying climbing injuries for 20 years and he’s documented a 600 percent increase in epiphyseal fractures over the past decade.

Early identification of this often insidious injury and a relatively short layoff from climbing (a few months) usually leads to a rapid resolution and return to climbing. Left to their own devices, however, many youths will continue to climb despite ongoing finger pain. Consequently, it’s essential that a coach (or parent) direct a reduction in—or complete withdraw from—climbing until the pain subsides. Consulting an Orthopedist is prudent, and a simple hand X-Ray will reveal the extent of the injury. Sadly, some parents and coaches remain ignorant and, incredibly, there are a few coaches who deny that this injury is even “real”…perhaps to allow their continued use of inappropriate (advanced) training tactics in the quest of developing the next champion climber.

How Does This Injury Present? What Action Should Be Taken?

Epiphyseal fractures typically occur during the adolescent growth spurt—between the ages of 10 – 14 for girls and 12 – 16 for boys—and they are most common during the year (or two) of highest growth velocity. Common growth plate injuries in other sports include Sever’s Heel and Osgood-Schlatter’s (knee) among running athletes and Little Leaguer’s Elbow with throwing athletes.

Among climbers, the injury is most common at the middle joint of the long (middle) finger. While a low-grade injury will present as slight knuckle pain only while climbing, a worsening condition will yield more acute pain while climbing as well as discomfort/aching during everyday activities. Since epiphyseal finger injury usually develops gradually, early identification and reduction of climbing time (or complete withdraw) will often bring about a rapid resolution (in a few months or less). Attempting to “climb through the injury” may result in a Salter-Harris fracture that can take many months to resolve and, in severe or untreated cases, lead to permanent disfigurement/dysfunction. A surprising number of the world’s top youth climbers—many who have stood on podiums and pushed the boundaries of outdoor climbing—have suffered a Salter-Harris fracture. Sadly, a few individuals have experienced repeated fractures, thus forcing a multi-year withdrawal from climbing.

How Should Youth Climbers Be Monitored To Reduce Risk of Growth Plate Fractures?

Proactive coaching is essential for enthusiastic youth climbers entering their growth spurt years. Since every child hits their growth spurt at a somewhat different time (some “bloom” early, while others have a delayed growth spurt), I recommend taking a quarterly measurement of height and weight from the age of 9 to 16. Plotting this data quarter-after-quarter will often reveal the onset of increasing growth velocity—this marks the beginning of the 12 to 24 months of highest risk of epiphyseal fracture…and it should prompt a coach to more closely monitor the youth’s fingers (frequently asking “do you have any finger pain/discomfort”) as well as ponder a possible reduction of time spent on “limit” climbing and specific training.

An annual hand ultrasound is a powerful monitoring tool, even with asymptomatic youths, and an X-Ray is appropriate in the case of acute finger pain (to determine if there’s a Salter-Harris fracture) and to confirm complete fusion of a mature youth (~age 16). This is an approach I’ve used to monitor the hands of my sons, and the recent X-Ray of my older son, Cameron’s (age 16), has revealed that his growth plates are now fused (photo below). Consequently, he’s now matured beyond the age of concern for this injury, and so I’ve finally been able to give him the “all clear” to ramp up his training intensity and volume to elite levels (after several year’s of holding him back from certain advanced/risky training practices).

Conversely, recent imagery of my younger son, Jonathan (age 14), reveals wide-open growth plates that, along with his recent growth of 5cm+ in the past year, places him in the period of highest risk of growth plate injury. By moderating Jonathan’s training, limiting his time doing extreme bouldering, and ensuring he gets plenty of sleep and high-quality nutrition, I trust that he can navigate Jonathan’s growth spurt years without injury (as his older brother did), while still enabling him to climb at an elite level at the crags. (You can read more about the Horst brothers and how they achieved the 5.14a/8b+ grade by the age of 11, while being multi-sport athletes and non-year-round climbers.)

growth plate injury youth climbers
X-rays of two asymptomatic, healthy youth climbers. Note the closed growth plates (left) and wide-open epiphyses of a rapidly growing boy (right). Click image to view full size.

youth lead climbing
Route climbing tends to be more forgiving on the fingers compared to limit bouldering on small crimpy holds.

8 Coaching Tips for Reducing Risk of Growth Plate Fractures

  • Track a climber’s height and weight from age 9 to 16 to identify the period of highest growth velocity (when the injury is most common). Consider annual hand ultrasound (or X-Ray in the case of acute pain) to screen for injury and to identify when the growth plates fuse (the end of GP injury concern). Coach each youth climber as a unique individual—a “slow grower” may be less at risk of growth plate injury than a fast-growing climber of similar ability and exposure.
  • Coach a comprehensive approach to improving climbing performance, with a strong emphasis on technique and mental skill development, rather than placing excessive focus on physical training.
  • Avoid specialization (such as a singular focus on extreme bouldering) and foster the development of diverse climbing skills by exposing youths to many different styles of climbing. Place a strong focus (and value) on onsight, flash, and “second go” climbing over projecting of extreme boulders and routes.
  • Favor generalized training with young climbers, including the development of antagonist and stabilizer muscle, aerobic capacity, flexibility, and tumbling ability. Keep training fun and varied, rather than regimented and highly targeted. Utilize a wide range of body-weight exercises (pull-ups, push-ups, core exercises, etc.) prior to the growth spurt, and introduce a limited number of free weight exercises and a modest amount of climbing-specific training during the growth spurt years.
  • While highly fit and advanced youth climbers may be able to do a small amount of hangboard training and “laddering” up a campus board, they should not engage in any “double dyno” campus training nor weighted hangboard training during their growth spurt years. The most prudent coaches will allow no campus board training during the growth spurt years.
  • During the period of highest growth velocity, time spent “limit bouldering” should be reduced to just 30 to 60 minutes once or twice per week. Climbing frequency should be limited to 2 to 4 days per week during the growth spurt years, with an immediate reduction in climbing time at the first sign of pain in the knuckles.
  • Coaches should instruct on minimal use of the crimp grip, which is highly stressful on the middle (PIP) joint of the long fingers. Route setters should avoid setting excessively crimpy problems for youth climbers (and at comps).
  • All youth climbers should have an “off-season” during which they do little or no climbing for one to four months. Playing a second sport is strongly recommended through age 16, in order to develop a high physical IQ and diverse motor skills that will last a lifetime.

Note: This article was originally posted in May 2017. Since then, Jonathan (now 17) has reached his adult height (fused growth plates) without injury. Thus, the guidelines detailed in this article enabled both Hörst boys to climb hard (and train appropriately) throughout their growth-spurt years without incurring a growth plate fracture and forced withdrawal from climbing.


Further Reading and Related Articles:

  • Training For Climbing – The most complete and up-to-date guide on physical, technical, and mental training for climbers of all ages.
  • One Move Too Many – The definitive guide to climbing injuries, treatment, and avoidance, by Dr. Volker Schöffl.
  • Overview of youth training for climbing.
  • Age-appropriate physical training for adolescent climbers.
  • Learn the tendon and bone health benefits of daily collagen consumption. Here’s a product designed specifically for climbers >>

Copyright © 2000–2019 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.

youth climbers finger injury
305 Shares
  • Facebook 302
  • Twitter 0
  • LinkedIn 2
  • Email 1
Posted in The Hurt Locker (Injury), Youth Training | Tagged growth plate fractures, youth climbing, youth training for climbing

Stronger Tendons. Fewer Injuries. Really!

supercharged collagen for climbers

Research-based connective tissue, joint, and muscle matrix support for climbers.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

PhysiVāntage Europe!

physivantage nutrition europe

Attention UK & EU climbers! You can now buy PhysiVāntage nutrition from the EPIC-TV shop!

Beat the Pump with Endure X!

Endure X Performance Drink by PhysiVantage

Increase your power endurance, stamina, and recovery between repeated efforts in training and climbing!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Lattice Testing & Training Rung

Lattice Testing & Training Rung

Learn more >>

Vegan BCAA & Electrolyte Supplement

FLOW bcaa electrolyte physivantage

Support muscle function and performance through long workouts or days of climbing.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

#1 International Best Seller!

Eric Horst's Training for Climbing, 3rd edition, 2016.

Click the book cover to learn about this international best-seller!

Premium Protein for Muscle Strength/Power Gains & Faster Recovery

Weapons-Grade Whey Protein Complex by PhysiVantage

The first recovery protein designed for climbers! Feel the Weapons-Grade difference.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

PowerPlex Plant-Based Protein!

Powerplex Plant-Based Protein

The Most Advanced Plant-Based Protein and Collagen Alternative for Vegans!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Knowledge Base

  • Train Body
  • Train Technique & Skills
  • Train Mind
  • Train Strategy
  • The Hurt Locker (Injury)
  • Youth Training
  • Climbing Mastery
  • Nutrition & Recovery
  • Research
  • Gimme Kraft! Videos
  • Basic Training
  • Climbing 101
  • T4C Videos
  • T4C Podcasts

Connect with T4C on Facebook!

Privacy Policy

https://trainingforclimbing.com/privacy-policy/

Footer logo
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • RSS Feed
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

Follow T4C on . . .twitter_logo1facebook-sm

 
 

Popular

    Training Programs for Climbers (T4C free download!)

    270361 views / Posted July 10, 2019
  • fingerboard training

    4 Fingerboard Training Protocols That Work

    172248 views / Posted November 1, 2016

    Treating “Climber’s Elbow” – Rehab and Prehab Protocol

    152621 views / Posted May 14, 2021

    The Best Climbing Exercise You’re Not Doing: The Scapular Pull-up!

    142224 views / Posted September 2, 2020
 
 

©2021 Eric J. Hörst - All Rights Reserved | Hörst Training, LLC

Menu

Subscribe to Training For Climbing Newsletter


(Your email address will NOT be shared or sold, and you can unsubscribe at any time.)

305 Shares
  • 302 Facebook
  • 0 Twitter
  • 2 LinkedIn
  • 1 Email
  • More Networks
Share via
Facebook
Twitter
LinkedIn
Mix
Pinterest
Tumblr
Skype
Buffer
Pocket
VKontakte
Parler
Xing
Reddit
Flipboard
MySpace
Delicious
Amazon
Digg
Evernote
Blogger
LiveJournal
Baidu
MeWe
NewsVine
Yummly
Yahoo
WhatsApp
Viber
SMS
Telegram
Facebook Messenger
Like
Email
Print
Copy Link
Powered by Social Snap
Copy link
CopyCopied
Powered by Social Snap