This a two-part deep dive into designing a comprehensive, long-term systems approach to training. Coach Eric Hörst unpacks—in rich detail—how systems actually function, and he highlights how transformative climbers throughout history “shake up the box” with innovative, highly effective methods to achieve big goals and push the boundaries of our sport.
In Part 1, Eric blends a concise climbing history lesson with an engineer-like breakdown of how intelligent systems operate. Part 2 of this series will deliver the actionable strategies you can use to build a personalized, high-performance training system for this winter…and for many seasons to come.
Eric emphasizes that as climbers progress beyond the beginner stage, climbing and training grow increasingly complex—requiring intentional, organized, and year-round development of strength, technique, mental skills, recovery habits, nutrition, and lifestyle management. Rather than ad-lib sessions or singular-focus programs (like only training strength), climbers need a comprehensive system fine-tuned daily and seasonally.
This is an entertaining and thought-provoking episode—so lean in, listen closely, and get ready to feel inspired, challenged, and equipped to level-up your modus operandi at the crag, in the gym, at home, and in everything you do! Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or online using the web player below.
Listen to #122 – Part 1 – Now!
Rundown #122
0:15 – Eric’s welcome
1:45 – Are you ready for “training season?”
3:15 – The powerful force of the compounding effect of year-over-year gains in strength and climbing ability!
🎧 Podcast Sponsors: La Sportiva | DMM | Friction Labs | PhysiVantage — Amplify your training and climb your best with PhysiVantage Nutrition for climbers. Save 15% off full-price nutrition at PhysiVantage.com with checkout code: PODCAST15
6:00 – Learning to climb is simple; learning how to train effectively is complex!
10:50 – Employing a “systems” approach to your training and goal pursuit.
13:10 – The value of waking each morning with a mission.
18:55 – Eric shares some climbing history…and names 5 legendary, transformative climbers that influenced him and helped inspire this systems approach to training/climbing.
20:30 – #1 Warren Harding…applied a mission approach to big wall climbing…and took commitment and suffering to a new level.
22:35 – #2 John Gill – The father of modern bouldering and training for climbing. Read his biography, Masters of Rock (by Pat Ament). Gill was climbing V9 (in hiking boots) in 1959!
24:30 – #3 Wolfgang Gullich – Applied a systems approach to training and hard climbing…and opened up the world’s first 5.14a, 5.14b, and 5.14d. Wolfgang helped invent the campus board, a climbing-specific form of plyometric training.
26:20 – #4 Todd Skinner – A pioneer of big wall free climbing, hard bouldering, and limit sport climbing, Todd employed a mission approach to climbing on a massive “all-in” and multi-year scale.
27:45 – #5 Lynn Hill – First female 5.14 ascent, World Cup Champion, and Free Ascent of The Nose of El Cap (1994). Lynn, like the other four legendary climbers, employed a systems approach to her climbing life.
30:00 – Two more important influences: my parents, Bob and Ethel Horst. My father, an engineer and inventor, helped shape my innate sense of needing to employ a systems approach to training/climbing.
31:05 – Side note about Jim Collins, a leading climber in the early1980s — later a best-selling author and business consultant, Jim described my mega-goal concept as a “BHAG”. Big Audacious Hairy Goal!
32:25– Conceptual model of a “System”.
32:40 – Five elements of an open system: 1. Input, 2. Output, 3, Structure, 4. Transport, 5. Conversion.
35:30 – Making a system into an “Intelligent System” with four additional elements: 6. Goal, 7. Sensor, 8. Controller, 9. Disturbance.
41:55 – Applying an Intelligent System approach to your training and goal pursuit. If you’re an advanced or elite climber, then employing a highly personalized system approach to training is essential for pursuing your genetic potential…and mega goals!
45:00 – Wrap up of Part 1 and a teaser for Part 2 coming in T4C Podcast #123!
Listen to #123 – Part 2 – Now!
Rundown #123
0:15 – Eric’s welcome
0:30 – Recap of Part 1 – Episode #122. If you haven’t already, please listen to Part 1 now >>
2:20 – 9 elements of a Systems applied to training for climbing.
7:00 – Some climbing-specific examples of employing an intelligent system approach to training. Examples of how each system element relates to daily training activities and mission pursuit.
11:55 – You have two choices…
12:40 – Tips for applying a systems approach to your training and non-training activities
15:00 – Importance of having a mega-goal. What’s your BHAG? You also need a series of short-term goals to make your journey more rich and enjoyable…and to help maintain motivation and a sense of progress.
17:50 – Importance of consciously selecting your INPUTs—training, rest, food, things you do to support recovery, etc.
22:30 – SENSOR…your subjective sense of movement quality and fatigue while climbing and training; but also via objective measures…such as tracking of metrics of fitness (grip strength, body weight, etc.)
25:05 – The power of DISTURBANCES to covertly sabotage your training and knock you off course from your goals. Strive to anticipate, avoid, or quickly course-correct.
28:00 – Most important: Be proactive and fully engaged in the process of training, climbing, and living. Don’t be an NPC!
29:30 – Wrap-up & Eric’s 50% Challenge.
🎧 Podcast Sponsors: La Sportiva | DMM | Friction Labs | PhysiVantage — Amplify your training and climb your best with PhysiVantage Nutrition for climbers. Save 15% off full-price nutrition at PhysiVantage.com with checkout code: PODCAST15
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
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Thank yous: La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
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