Learn how to train most effectively during the week to climb your best on the weekend. This podcast is a must-listen for every weekend warrior who engages in any kind of weekday training!

Do you work or school full-time during the week, then on the weekends set off on a mission to climb your hardest? If so, then you’ve surely considered how to train most effectively during the workweek…to set yourself up for success on the rocks over the weekend.

Eric Horst climbing The Gift of Grace, New River Gorge, WV

The author re-climbs his New River Gorge classic, “The Gift of Grace” (5.12b). Eric did the first ascent of this climb in 1989. (Photo: Dan Brayack)

It is this situation that is the focus of this episode, in which I’ll arm you with some strategies and tips for making the most of your weekday training. I’ll also touch on some important non-training influences on your weekend climbing–arriving at the boulders or crag 100% ready to send is more than just a matter of physical preparation.


0:25 – Intro to the new “FLASH edition” of the Training For Climbing podcast

1:30 – TOPIC: Effective Weekday Training for Weekend Sending! (aka. Workweek training for the Weekend Warrior)

3:12 – Part #1 – The goals of weekday training….and how many days to climb/train? Weekday training should be designed to maintain energy system power, sharpen skills, and allow for enough rest to “peak” for weekend sending.

4:50 – Part #2 – What to do when you train? Limit serious weekday training/climbing to just two days (for most people that’s two sessions, although for some elites it may be 2-a-day workouts on 2 days)….this could be Tuesday/Wednesday or Tuesday/Thursday. Which is right for you?

8:32 – Part #3 – The influence of non-climbing/non-training activities on your climbing performance. What you do when you’re NOT climbing/training during the weekdays is massively important — sleep, diet/nutrition, managing stress, and staying motivated to crush come the weekend are all vital factors.

11:00 – Wrap up and sponsor message.

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Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

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