Gain clues to improving the effectiveness of your training-for-climbing system as coach Hörst reveals his training advice for four passionate climbers. This is a fascinating must-listen, two-part podcast!
In this two-part series, Coach Hörst provides tips for an effective, holistic approach to steady, long-term improvement. No matter your ability level or weakness (physical, technical, or mental), this podcast will arm you with tips and techniques to put to work, beginning today. Take your game to the next level with tips from episodes 73 and 74!
Podcast #73 – Part 1: 20 Tips for Beginner & Intermediate Climbers
Listen to PART 1 with the player below (or Apple podcasts, Google Play, Spotify, etc.)…and then scroll down to listen to PART 2 (podcast #72).
0:35 – Eric’s Welcome!
2:40 – Recap of Episodes 71 & 72, and how that sets up this Episode 73.
5:00 – Sponsor ad read – please support our sponsors, visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
7:45 – Intro to 40 Ways to Improve Your Training & Climbing
9:00 – The importance of making small course corrections…which can make massive changes in your climbing in the long-term.
9:50 – 10 Tips for Beginner-level Climbers (0 to 2 years of regular climbing)
10:30 – KISS
12:20 – The “3- or 4-day-per-week Rule”
14:00 – Importance of Bouldering and Route climbing
15:15 – Score your sessions by moves (or feet) climbed, not absolute difficult climbed.
16:55 – The 80/20 Split
18:10 – The value of some strength training exercises
21:20 – Don’t overlook flexibility training
23:40 – “Read” (visualize) every boulder or route before you begin to climb
25:20 – Learn the difference between Good Pain and Bad Pain
27:20 – Consider your BMI….and what it means for your health and climbing experience
29:45 – 10 Tips for Intermediate Climbers (~2 to 5 years experience)
30:45 – Don’t get injured training…as you begin to engage in more advanced, targeted training techniques!
32:22 – Don’t Specialized…in just one form of climbing
34:40 – Do some outdoor climbing!
36:24 – Stick with the “80/20 split”
38:00 – Commit to understanding and learning to manage your fears.
40:50 – Learn to fall trying (in safe situations)
42:07 – Strive to increase awareness of your changing physical and emotional states…and learn countermeasures to optimize these states for performance.
44:30 – Practice climbing more efficiently–reclimbing boulders and routes on a quest for higher economy and elite movement skills.
47:00 – Be okay with failure–it’s part of the process of learning and advancing as a climber. (If you’re not failing sometimes, you’re not advancing.)
53:24 – Intro to the new “The Struggle” podcast with Ryan Devlin – Episode #1 featuring Emily Harrington
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Podcast #73 – Part 1: 20 Tips for Beginner & Intermediate Climbers
In this Part 2 in the series, 40 Ways to Improve Your Training and Climbing, Coach Hörst provides 20 tips for advanced and elite-level climbers. Discover how to employ a more nuanced and holistic approach to training and performance — essential for eeking out further gains for high-level climbers with many years of experience.
0:30 – Eric’s Welcome!
4:04 – 10 Tips for Advanced Climber
6:06 – #1. Strive for a greater nuance of actions taken on and off the rock.
8:02 – #2. Become a true master of rock — seek to elevate weaknesses…physical, mental, technical.
10:15 – #3. Re-evaluate (and switch up) your finger training.
13:30 – #4. MORE CORE! Learn what to do more/less of.
17:02 – #5. Seek to build a more robust, balanced, and injury-resistant physique.
19:40 – #6. Consider an occasional period of specialization.
23:00 – #7. Create a “seasonality” of your training/climbing system.
25:20 – #8. Employ brief periods of “overreach” training followed by a shorter spell of deload.
28:40 – #9. Clean up your diet and strive to fill in any nutrient shortcomings — adequate protein consumption is important, but also be sure you’re getting the necessary minerals to support muscle function (electrolytes and, in particular, magnesium). Learn how Magnesium supports ATP production here >>
32:30 – #10. Always have fun! Climbing is NOT your job….yet!
34:15 – 10 Tips for Elite Climbers
36:00 – #1. Develop a deep, long-term relationship with a coach…or seek out a veteran pro climber to be your mentor.
38:40 – #2. Attack lingering weaknesses…physical, mental, technical.
39:30 – Pro Tip…on the importance of training for a lower resting heart rate
41:40 – #3. Build a stronger cardiovascular system to power longer days of training/climbing, and to speed recovery between exercises, climbs, and workouts.
44:10 – #4. Engage in year-round climbing-specific training — at least one session per week!
49:02 – #5. Commit to comprehensive core training — high-level athletic achievement demands exceptional core strength and strength-endurance.
50:12 – #6. Design occasional project-specific training exercises and sessions.
52:38 – #7. Occasionally engage in outdoor climbing styles that are outside your wheelhouse.
54:20 – #8. Embark on a relentless journey to achieve higher efficiency in even the smallest aspects of climbing performance.
58:10 – #9. Be willing to sacrifice greatly. Learn more in this podcast “The 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers” >>
1:01:45 – #10. Elevate your character, and seek a higher level of spiritual awareness and engagement with your surroundings. Believe in your mission!
1:06:20 – Summary comments.
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Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
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