This episode of the Training For Climbing podcast serves up numerous powerful tips—that you can put to work immediately—to more effectively work on hard boulders and routes…and send more quickly!

Learn about the power of proprioception and “feel beta” (a coach Hörst secret…shush!), why it’s vital to keep an open mind in working crux sequences, how you can reduce your chances of “punting”, the benefits of engaging in active recovery between send goes, and the importance of trusting the process and letting the outcome fold organically.


0:40 – Podcast Intro

3:38 – Eric mentions his livestream Training Cafe–—he invites you to join in and ask training questions. Tune in every other Monday at Noon ET on Eric’s Training For Climbing YouTube and Training for Climbing Facebook page.

5:45 – Introducing the main topic: 10 Powerful Tips to project more effectively and send more quickly.

6:50 – TIP #1 – Don’t view the boulder or route as an overwhelming whole, but instead break it down into more manageable and believable parts.

9:32 – TIP #2 – Don’t rush to judgment on the crux sequence–keep an open mind and keep testing other beta options even when you’re many days into a project.

15:50 – TIP #3 – In working the hardest moves identify the proprioceptive feel of doing the move effectively–take note of this powerful “feel beta” and leverage it to succeed on your send go. Lean into this one…listen, learn, and employ!

21:16 – TIP #4 – Practice the top portion of the route a lot more than you think is necessary–get it totally wired and automatic, so there’s no doubt you can climb it pumped on point.

23:37 – TIP #5 – When you first succeed on the crux sequence, don’t rush to redpoint…but instead repeat the crux again to confirm the foot beta and feel beta!

26:50 – Brief commercial break – Visit and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

28:15 – TIP #6 – Cut yourself free of unnecessary fear load! Learn to better manage your climbing fears…heeding legitimate fears and dismissing phantom fears. Listen to podcasts #62 and #65 which provide in-depth instruction on becoming an expert fear manager.

31:09 – TIP #7 – Engage in active recovery between working burns or send goes. A short walk can do wonders for your recovery–learn why…and exactly what you should do.

36:10 – TIP #8 – Build a boulder or route simulator to train for longer-term, distant projects. Build route-specific strength!

39:47 – TIP #9 – Begin each redpoint day with one no-pressure trial run to get a route-specific warm-up and to gain a refresher on the “feel beta”.

41:55 – TIP #10 – Trust the process and let the send happen when it’s meant to happen! Expect success, but accept that it’s okay to feel…because you know the boulder or route will be yours exactly when it’s meant to be.

47:40 – Parting comments. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts…and share this podcast with a friend or on social media.


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Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

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