Browse: Home / Podcast #66: 10 Powerful Tips to Climb Harder Boulders and Routes (and Punt Less Often!)

Menu

Skip to content
Header image

Training For Climbing – by Eric HörstLogo

Train Smarter, Climb Harder!

Menu

Skip to content
  • Privacy Policy
  • About
    • Welcome to the New T4C!
    • About T4C
    • Eric’s Biography
    • Eric’s Publishing Resume
    • Eric’s Books (1994 – present)
    • Meet the Hörst Family!
    • Testimonials
    • Terms of Use
    • Contact Eric
  • Knowledge Base
  • Multimedia
  • Buy Books
    • Training for Climbing (3rd edition)
    • The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide
    • Maximum Climbing
    • One Move Too Many
    • How To Climb 5.12
    • Learning to Climb Indoors
    • Rock Climbing: VA/MD/WV
  • Training Tools
    • Lattice “Triple” Hangboard
    • Lattice “Mini Bar”
    • Lattice “QUAD” Pinch Block
    • Lattice Heavy Roller – Forearm Training for Climbers
    • Lattice Training – Lifting Pin (aka “Loading Pin”)
    • Lattice Flex Mat – Yoga & Stretching Training
    • Lattice Training “Micro Holds”
    • Lattice Mega Bar – Portable Hangboard for Climbers
    • Endless Rope Trainer
  • Research
  • Coaching
  • Links

Podcast #66: 10 Powerful Tips to Climb Harder Boulders and Routes (and Punt Less Often!)

Posted by Eric Hörst on September 3, 2021 in Climbing Mastery, Train Strategy, Train Technique & Skills | 1,020 Views | Leave a response
11    
11
Shares

This episode of the Training For Climbing podcast serves up numerous powerful tips—that you can put to work immediately—to more effectively work on hard boulders and routes…and send more quickly!

Learn about the power of proprioception and “feel beta” (a coach Hörst secret…shush!), why it’s vital to keep an open mind in working crux sequences, how you can reduce your chances of “punting”, the benefits of engaging in active recovery between send goes, and the importance of trusting the process and letting the outcome fold organically.

RUNDOWN

0:40 – Podcast Intro

3:38 – Eric mentions his livestream Training Cafe–—he invites you to join in and ask training questions. Tune in every other Monday at Noon ET on Eric’s Training For Climbing YouTube and Training for Climbing Facebook page.

5:45 – Introducing the main topic: 10 Powerful Tips to project more effectively and send more quickly.

6:50 – TIP #1 – Don’t view the boulder or route as an overwhelming whole, but instead break it down into more manageable and believable parts.

9:32 – TIP #2 – Don’t rush to judgment on the crux sequence–keep an open mind and keep testing other beta options even when you’re many days into a project.

15:50 – TIP #3 – In working the hardest moves identify the proprioceptive feel of doing the move effectively–take note of this powerful “feel beta” and leverage it to succeed on your send go. Lean into this one…listen, learn, and employ!

21:16 – TIP #4 – Practice the top portion of the route a lot more than you think is necessary–get it totally wired and automatic, so there’s no doubt you can climb it pumped on point.

23:37 – TIP #5 – When you first succeed on the crux sequence, don’t rush to redpoint…but instead repeat the crux again to confirm the foot beta and feel beta!

26:50 – Brief commercial break – Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

28:15 – TIP #6 – Cut yourself free of unnecessary fear load! Learn to better manage your climbing fears…heeding legitimate fears and dismissing phantom fears. Listen to podcasts #62 and #65 which provide in-depth instruction on becoming an expert fear manager.

31:09 – TIP #7 – Engage in active recovery between working burns or send goes. A short walk can do wonders for your recovery–learn why…and exactly what you should do.

36:10 – TIP #8 – Build a boulder or route simulator to train for longer-term, distant projects. Build route-specific strength!

39:47 – TIP #9 – Begin each redpoint day with one no-pressure trial run to get a route-specific warm-up and to gain a refresher on the “feel beta”.

41:55 – TIP #10 – Trust the process and let the send happen when it’s meant to happen! Expect success, but accept that it’s okay to feel…because you know the boulder or route will be yours exactly when it’s meant to be.

47:40 – Parting comments. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts…and share this podcast with a friend or on social media.

USE THESE LINKS TO SHARE

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing


Copyright © 2000–2021 Hörst Training, LLC | All Rights Reserved.


11    
11
Shares
11   
Posted in Climbing Mastery, Train Strategy, Train Technique & Skills | Tagged bouldering, climbing technique, climbing tips, projecting, redpoint tips

Lattice Testing & Training Tools

Lattice Testing & Training Tools

Shop Now >>

Beat the Pump with Endure X!

Endure X Performance Drink by PhysiVantage

Increase your power endurance, stamina, and recovery between repeated efforts in training and climbing!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Stronger Tendons. Fewer Injuries. Really!

supercharged collagen for climbers

Research-based connective tissue, joint, and muscle matrix support for climbers.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

#1 International Best Seller!

Eric Horst's Training for Climbing, 3rd edition, 2016.

Click the book cover to learn about this international best-seller!

Vegan BCAA & Electrolyte Supplement

FLOW bcaa electrolyte physivantage

Support muscle function and performance through long workouts or days of climbing.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

PhysiVāntage Europe!

physivantage nutrition europe

Attention UK & EU climbers! You can now buy PhysiVāntage nutrition from the EPIC-TV shop!

Premium Protein for Muscle Strength/Power Gains & Faster Recovery

Weapons-Grade Whey Protein Complex by PhysiVantage

The first recovery protein designed for climbers! Feel the Weapons-Grade difference.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

PowerPlex Plant-Based Protein!

Powerplex Plant-Based Protein

The Most Advanced Plant-Based Protein and Collagen Alternative for Vegans!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Knowledge Base

  • Train Body
  • Train Technique & Skills
  • Train Mind
  • Train Strategy
  • The Hurt Locker (Injury)
  • Youth Training
  • Climbing Mastery
  • Nutrition & Recovery
  • Research
  • Gimme Kraft! Videos
  • Basic Training
  • Climbing 101
  • T4C Videos
  • T4C Podcasts

Connect with T4C on Facebook!

Supercharge Your Climbing!

https://trainingforclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Final-Climbers-ad-hook-2-v1.mp4

Privacy Policy

https://trainingforclimbing.com/privacy-policy/

Footer logo
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • RSS Feed
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

Follow T4C on . . .twitter_logo1facebook-sm

 
 

Popular

  • Training Programs for Climbers (T4C free download!)

    295442 views / Posted July 10, 2019
  • Treating “Climber’s Elbow” – Rehab and Prehab Protocol

    187312 views / Posted May 14, 2021
  • 4 Fingerboard Training Protocols That Work

    182639 views / Posted November 21, 2022
  • The Best Climbing Exercise You’re Not Doing: The Scapular Pull-up!

    153056 views / Posted September 2, 2020
 
 

©2021 Eric J. Hörst - All Rights Reserved | Hörst Training, LLC

Menu

Subscribe to Training For Climbing Newsletter


(Your email address will NOT be shared or sold, and you can unsubscribe at any time.)