Training Café #51 – End-of-Season Assessment, Reflection, and Planning for Progress!

1:35 -Introducing PhysiVantage’s special holiday SEND BLEND coffee.

2:20 – SHOUT-OUT to Alex Megos on another 5.15c ascent! Watch the uncut send video here.

~10:00 – The importance of redesigning your training in order to progress next season.

~15:00 – Do rough 2022 season planning NOW!

****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******

18:30 –  What tips and advice do you have for keeping a training log?

21:00 – Eric reveals his training log book with advice for keeping both objective and subjective data.

28:38 – Do you recommend taking EAAs or BCAAs, before or during training, in addition to Supercharged Collagen? Learn more: https://physivantage.com/products/supercharged-collagen
31:30 – What causes next-pain muscle pain? Is this sort of pain normal or something to avoid?

34:30 – I just dislocated my knee cap…so I’m wondering what training I can do during my recovery period?

36:00 – How many strength and endurance sessions can I do per week as an 8a-level climber?

38:00 – Is there an ideal BMI range for climbers?

40:20 – Do you think eccentric exercise is best for tendon health and strength? Read more about training and nutrition for healthy connective tissues: https://physivantage.com/pages/nutrition-for-tendons-ecm

44:00 – Eric comments on the 7-53 max strength hangboard protocol…and when you should switch to training one arm at a time.

45:20 – What’s the difference between doing 7/3 Repeaters with added weight and longer rest and doing them at bodyweight (or less) with only a minute rest between sets?

50:00 – As a boulderer doing max finger training, how can I best add more finger grip variety?

53:30 – As a new climber, I’m wondering if I can do some hangboard training on large holds?

55:42 – My climbing season is about over, but I’m close on a 5.13a project. Should I travel to make more attempts before year’s end or save it for next season and begin my winter training now?

58:01 – How many sizes do you downsize your La Sportiva climbing shoes? Get a discount on La Sportiva shoes here: https://www.sportiva.com/?avad=276649_d252cead5&utm_source=avantlink_www.trainingforclimbing.com&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=bb_affiliate&utm_content=Custom+Link&utm_term=276649_www.trainingforclimbing.com

1:00:30 – What are your thoughts on hangboarding with a half crimp or chisel?

1:02:30 – Final thoughts…

Related Articles:

• An Effective Approach to Training through the Holidays
• Developing a System for Success
• A Simple Formula for Extreme Success

THANK YOU: La Sportiva shoes, Maxim Ropes, DMM, Organic, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage!