Training Café #84 - Weekday Training for Weekend Warriors!

In this live coaching session Eric Hörst details best practices for weekday training in preparation for weekend performance climbing. Then, beginning just after the 22:00 mark, coach Hörst answers a series of viewer questions on training, nutrition, injury, and more! Watch the video on the T4C YouTube channel, or scroll to the embedded video player. Enjoy!

Here’s a few key weekday training tips from the video:

1️⃣ Limit yourself to just two days of rigorous training during the weekdays.
📌 My recommendation for most climbers is to train strength/power/limit bouldering on Tuesday and then power-endurance and aerobic endurance on Wednesday.

2️⃣ Advanced climbers can do two-a-day workouts on Tuesday and Wednesday.
📌 Limit each session to 90 minutes, and be sure to rest between sessions for at 6 to 8 hours (and eat a protein- and carb-rich meal in between).

3️⃣ If your schedule dictates Tuesday & Thursday as your training days, be sure that your Thursday session is not exhaustive.
📌 Ideally, your Thursday climbing training should be completed as early in the day as possible, although you can do generalized aerobic training later in the day.

4️⃣ Quality nutrition and sleep are critical throughout the week.
📌 Recovery is key! Strive for 7 to 9 hours of sleep on hard training days and maintain a high-protein diet throughout (100+ grams of protein daily — whole food and supplemental protein combined).

5️⃣ For weekend warriors, Mondays and Fridays must be days void of rigorious exercise.
📌 Stretching and mobility work are smart recovery modalities on these days, as can be going for a walk or easy run/swim.bike ride.

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