T4C Podcast #78 - Lattice Training Interview with Eric Hörst

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This is a 75-minute training-for-climbing tour de force by two of the world’s top trainers, Tom Randall (Lattice UK) and Eric Hörst. The engaging format has Tom interviewing Eric on a variety of foundational topics, including finger strength testing and training, methods of endurance training, the pros/cons of System Wall and Campus Training…and the future of training for climbing.

This is a must-listen episode for anyone passionate about training for the next grade!

RUNDOWN

0:40 – Intro to this epic conversation between Tom and Eric.

1:35 – Eric reflects on seminal conversations with top climbers and coaches, past and present.

2:30 – Eric’s first appearance on the Lattice Training Podcast in Spring 2022.

3:23 – Podcast Sponsor message on Supercharged Collagen. Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVāntage Nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 >>

5:45 – Interview begins…

8:00 – Endurance Training…past and present.

15:00 – The value of a Treadwall for testing and training.

18:20 – Finger strength training past and present.

22:25 – Importance of personalized training programming.

24:20 – Finger force testing and performance databases.

30:00 – The many paths to harder climbing (besides finger training).

32:30 – Performance profiling and testing.

36:00 – Movement quality assessment.

37:40 – Udo Neumann movement videos.

40:00 – Longevity in climbing. Climbing hard into your 30s, 40s, and beyond!

41:40 – Discussion of key training tools for finger training and more.

43:20 – Importance of climbing outside more often!

44:10 – “Copy cat” training.

45:25 – Hangboard protocols…and potential “dead ends”.

48:00 – Hang boarding to AVOID failure (local aerobic system training).

49:50 – Tom describes how many climbers underperform their strength testing results.

50:55 – The dilemma of weekend warriors — more time spent training inside than climbing outside.

53:25 – Send Bros (Cameron & Jonathan Horst) need more climbing time, too!

55:00 – System Wall training pros/cons.

1:01:00 – Next level training with a System Wall and Treadwall.

1:04:10 – Eric comments on the advent of the Campus Board. RIP Wolfgang Gullich.

1:07:00 – Tom asks about the nutritional influence on training and climbing performance.

1:09:10 – Importance of getting nutrition right, especially among elite-level climbers.

1:10:25 – About launching PhysiVāntage, the first complete line of nutritional products for climbers.

1:12:00 – European climbers can get PhysiVāntage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com

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SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Listen to the original interview as released in May 2022 on the Lattice Training Podcast.

Lattice Description of this episode:

This episode is a BIG one! We’ve got on the show today, Eric Horst, one of the original founding fathers of modern training theory for climbing and a total legend of the climbing world in general. This episode is going to be hardcore training and more training!

In many ways, what we’ve tried to achieve at Lattice has been built upon the foundation of work, theory and practice of climbers like Eric who have made a significant contribution to the industry’s knowledge via books, podcasts, videos and many articles.

As there’s an almost unlimited amount of items we’d like to cover in this interview, we’ve tried to distill down Eric’s knowledge, opinion and experience into a number of “big ticket” items that relate to many of us, when it comes to climbing training and performance. Sit back, grab yourself a cup of tea and enjoy…