Video: Novel Warm-up Exercise for the Forearm Extensor Muscles
Antagonist muscle training is an essential part of a sound training-for-climbing program. At minimum, I…
Video: Interview with Patrick Matros & Dicki Korb
I spent much of June in the Frankenjura (Germany) with my family. Besides climbing on…
Podcast #4: The Power of Proprioception
Download all the monthly training podcasts by subscribing to the “Training for Climbing” podcast on iTunes,…
Effectiveness of “Dangling Arm” and “G-Tox” Recovery Techniques
Key Points and Practical Application: In this study, the “G-tox” active recovery method proved superior to…
Youth Climbing Injuries (and Prevention)
Climbing is a wonderful brain-, body-, and character-building sport for kids, but it’s also a…
Podcast: Eric Hörst Interview with Training Beta
I was happy to do an extended interview with Neely Quinn of TrainingBeta.com, and we…
Podcast #3: Accelerated Learning of Climbing Skills
Despite being as intuitive and natural as walking or running, climbing can be a remarkably…
Benefits of Active Recovery Between Climbs
Key Points & Practical Application: Compared with passive recovery, use of active recovery yielded faster…
Podcast #2: Climbing Performance “X-Factors”
Ever wonder what intangibles make great climbers great? Learn the “X-factors” that help make greats like Ondra,…
Projecting Strategies – How to Suss and Send
“Nix any thoughts of redpointing the route—leave that for some future moment; whether it’s later in the…