Category: Train Technique & Skills

Podcast #97: Getting a Grip! All About Chalk Use a...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Aug 25, 2024 | Climbing 101, Podcasts, Train Technique & Skills

Slowing the Pump Clock: 5 Strategies to Improve Yo...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jul 1, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Nutrition & Recovery, Train Strategy, Train Technique & Skills

5 Tips for Improving Your Climbing Efficiency (and...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Oct 16, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Technique & Skills, Training Articles

Climb More Creatively with Alex Megos’ Stretching ...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Oct 3, 2023 | Athlete Spotlights, Train Technique & Skills

Develop Fantastic Footwork with Heel-Hook and Toe-...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Sep 18, 2023 | Train Technique & Skills

Tall Beta: Hacks for Tall Climbers to Make the Mos...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Aug 30, 2023 | Train Body, Train Technique & Skills

“Belaytionship” Tips for Safe, Confident Climbing With Your Belayer

by Lucie Hanes | Aug 15, 2023 | Motivation, Train Technique & Skills

Climbing your best begins with trust—in yourself and in your belay partner. There’s nothing...

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Level-Up Your Warm-Up Climbs

by Lucie Hanes | Jul 31, 2023 | Climbing 101, Train Technique & Skills

Your warm-up doesn’t end the second you pull onto the wall. Learn how to make the most of...

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Improve Climbing Footwork with “Target Practice”

by Eric Hörst | Jul 13, 2023 | Train Technique & Skills, Training Articles

When your upper body feels maxed out, look to your feet. Great footwork makes climbing hard routes...

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Mastering Climbing Movement with Proprioception and “Process Feedback”

by Eric Hörst | Jun 6, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Mind, Train Technique & Skills, Training Articles

Climbing your best is all about efficiency of movement. Mastering that skill requires tuning into...

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T4C Podcast #86: The Road to 5.13a – A Personalized Training Strategy with Ryan Devlin

by Eric Hörst | Apr 30, 2023 | Podcasts, Train Body, Train Technique & Skills, Training Articles

What’s it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you’ll hear my prescription...

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4 Steps to Improve Your Quality of Movement and Climb Harder!

by Lucie Hanes | Mar 17, 2023 | Train Technique & Skills

Clean up your act! Improve your quality of movement for better efficiency, fluidity, precision,...

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How to Train Optimally…and Become a Maximum Climber

by Eric Hörst | Mar 13, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Mind, Train Technique & Skills

Maximum climbing isn’t the same as training yourself into the ground. It’s more about...

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Get Lit: An Introduction to Interactive Climbing Boards

by Lucie Hanes | Feb 24, 2023 | Train Body, Train Technique & Skills

Get the lowdown on every type of interactive climbing board you’ll find in gyms and garages...

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Effective Gym Training Strategies for Route Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Nov 4, 2022 | Train Technique & Skills, Training Articles

Gym access means that climbers no longer have to hibernate all winter long until the sun comes out...

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Onsight Practice Payoffs for Faster Improvement

by Lucie Hanes | Oct 7, 2022 | Climbing Mastery, Train Technique & Skills, Training Articles

Beta might help accelerate the send, but it stunts technical growth as a climber. Learn why...

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Pursue Climbing Mastery By Diversifying Your Climbing Skill Set

by Lucie Hanes | Sep 30, 2022 | Train Technique & Skills

A master climber is a well-rounded climber. Pursuing climbing mastery, then, demands that you...

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Podcast #66: 10 Powerful Tips to Climb Harder Boulders and Routes (and Punt Less Often!)

by Eric Hörst | Sep 3, 2021 | Climbing Mastery, Train Strategy, Train Technique & Skills

This episode of the Training For Climbing podcast serves up numerous powerful tips—that you can...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training season is coming in hit. Everyone wants to maximize their outdoor sessions but the winter is a great opportunity to build up for what is to come in the spring. Check out the new T4C article and learn how to build a winter routine and what are important focuses Ik following an outdoor stint. Click the link in bio for Transitioning from Cragging to Training!
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#climbing #climb #trainingforclimbing #tranining

Are you at the point in your climbing where you ar

Are you at the point in your climbing where you are ready to begin hangboarding, or want a new protocol to check out? If you’ve been climbing long enough and feel ready to begin a higher end workout you are in the right place. A detailed one arm, and 2 arm protocol is outlined on the Training for Climbing website. So check out the article and the associated videos in the Advanced Hangboarding link in bio!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbing #hangboarding #physivantage

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast d

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast dropped today! In this episode Coach Hörst talks about 13 actionable tactics and strategies that play a huge role in your climbing performance. Ranging from personal control of your body, to timing and mentality. Check out the link in bio to access the podcast or listen wherever you find your episodes.
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#trainingforclimbingpodcast #climb #climbing #training

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my r

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my rucksack. This is the first in a new series of “Quick Tips” — subscribe to the Training For Climbing channel for notice of future videos!

👉Watch video at the link in our bio!

#climbingtraining #climbing #performance La Sportiva

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs climbing days. Whether that means more goes on a project, more threshold for an individual route, or simply more pitches in a day. The question is how do you know to focus on this style of climbing while training or while climbing outside? It is critical to understand the difference between the aerobic and anaerobic energy system. Check out the link in bio for Anaerobic vs Aerobic training!
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#climb #climbing #trainingforclimbing #training

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certa

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certain Mondays Coach Hörst hosts a live training cafe on the train gìn for climbing YouTube Channel! Check out the posting from this week and tune in for future episodes to get your climbing/training/performance questions answered!
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#training #climbing #trainingforclimbing #trainingcafe

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast with Coach Hörst! Episode 107 focuses on dialing in your game in the final days leading up to your projecting season. A primary focus of this podcast is how to prevent the pun, which we all know you need! Check it out wherever you get your podcasts, and leave a review!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbingpodcast

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on sloper nuances!
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👊 Sloper Stress: Key Insights for Climbers 👊

If you’ve been climbing for a while, you know that using slopers requires significantly more friction (indicated by the pink shading) compared to other types of holds. The greater the skin surface area in contact with the hold, the better you can apply downward force.

Slopers are designed with a downward slope and often lack sharp edges, which means your fingers are positioned at wider angles. This wider angle, viewed through the lens of the length-tension relationship (how muscle length affects its strength), is not ideal for generating force.

In this position, your wrist is more “passive” and stretched compared to when you’re gripping smaller, flatter holds. In contrast, when your wrist is in a flexed position (like in a half or full crimp), the length-tension relationship of your finger and wrist flexors improves, allowing for better force generation.

Due to the shape of slopers, climbers depend more on passive structures such as joint capsules, ligaments, and titin to maintain balance below the hands. Once skin contact is lost, the wrist flexes to create a plumb line (indicated by the green arrow) underneath. This flexed position places significant stress on the wrist’s ligaments.

Now, consider that the average strain on wrist ligaments increases when a climber is fatigued. As you tire, your muscles become less effective at protecting the joint, putting even more strain on the ligaments.

Actionable Takeaways:

1. Vary Your Holds: Regularly change the types of holds you use during practice.

2. No Added Weight: Focus on developing your skill with slopers without adding extra weight.

3. Strength Training: Incorporate exercises to improve forearm strength and recruitment.

4. Know When to Stop: End your climbing session when you notice a drop in coordination.

By following these guidelines, you can enhance your performance while minimizing the risk of injury.

#rockclimbing #climbingtraining #climbingperformance #climbstrong #climbingdoctor #usaclimbing #performanceclimbingcoach #ifsc #wristinjury #training4climbing #climbinglife

If you missed it, check out episode 102 of the Tra

If you missed it, check out episode 102 of the Training For Climbing podcast. This episode, released a few months ago is the fourth iteration of the road to 5.13 for @thestruggleclimbingshow . Ryan has been inching closer to his goal of 13a and hopefully this fall it goes down! Give this episode a listen for some coaching that you can apply to your own projects this season! Click the link in bio to find it, or listen wherever you get podcasts!
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#climb #training #trainingforclimbing #fallclimbing #climbing

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