It’s just another bouldering video. Right? Ten days of suffering, angst, and “wanting it over”.

Not with Megos!

While many climbers want to rush “the process” (and maybe even hate the process), Alex Megos exemplifies a love for and trust in the process of hard climbing. Yes, I’m sure Alex would enjoy climbing the route on his very first day—but sending near your limit rarely happens quickly.

Projecting a difficult boulder/route or pursuing a First Ascent is a mentally tough process. Climbing masters of generations before Megos (legends such as John Gill, Todd Skinner, Lynn Hill, Wolfgang Güllich, and Chris Sharma) all came to discover that the send will happen when it is meant to happen! Therefore, it’s best—and most enjoyable—to let go of the outcome and simply love and trust the process of hard climbing.

In this wonderful video Megos reveals many of the traits that make him one of the world’s very best climbers. Sure, Alex has really strong fingers. More important, however, is that Alex’s love of climbing is even stronger. This intangible trait is what powers Alex’s inner fire and keeps him coming back to the project…and believing in the project. By letting go of the outcome and quelling the desire to rush the process and “get the send behind him”, Alex puts himself in the best state to perform…and eventually succeed in doing the First Ascent of Upgrade U (8C/V15).

Watch the Megos video now, then scroll down to read master tips for climbing your best!

Master Tips for Climbing Your Very Best

Climbing at your limit—whether it’s 5.10 or 5.15—demands a Zen-like approach of effortless effort. Here are three tips for organically assuming this rare state of being.

1. Observe objectively. Accept failed attempts as part of the process that you love. Embrace the feedback that the process gifts you—there may be better beta waiting to be discovered. Perhaps like Megos, you’ll find a better body position, nuanced grip, or sequence “beta” on send day.
2. Quell negative emotions. Don’t curse failed attempts and “near misses”. Smile—you’re learning and getting closer with each attempt! Love every moment of the effort you invest in the climb. This effort is a piece of your life force, so why would you want to curse and hate it? (Question: What are the more powerful forces in the Universe: Peace and Love…or Anger and Hate? Put the positive forces of the Universe behind your efforts!)
3. Let go of the need to succeed. Will your project take one day to send? Ten days to send? Is today going to be the day? Stop counting…stop caring…just climb! Let go of the outcome, and it will sooner be your reality—perhaps when you least expect it!

The bottom line: Believe in, trust, and enjoy the process and, like Alex, love everything about this “stupid sport!”


Copyright © 2000–2020 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.


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