Introducing Entralpi Finger Strength Testing and Training Force Plate
I’m happy to endorse the Entralpli Kickstarter project for a first-of-its-kind force plate for guiding…
Video: Geek Climber Q&A on Finger A2 Pulley Injury Recovery
Finger pulley tweaks are the most common climbing injury. No one is immune—not beginner, intermediate,…
The Skinny on Optimizing Body Composition to Improve Climbing Performance
Learn how to optimize your body composition and increase specific-strength metrics to elevate climbing performance.…
Podcast #39: Climbing Injuries – A Perfect Storm Brewing…
Causes of Common Overuse Injuries and What You Can Do To Prevent Them! This is…
Rotpunkt: Alex Megos and the Art of the Redpoint (Trailer)
Sport climbing videos are virtually ubiquitous (and often unremarkable), but when I heard about the…
Mastering Climbing Movement with Proprioception and “Process Feedback”
Mastering movement and climbing your best demands exquisite motor skills and highly nuanced use of…
Overcoming the Fear of Failure
Fear of failure wields tremendous power over climbers who possess an unbending need for success.…
Podcast #38: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 6)
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst…Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of…
Shauna Coxsey Training for 2020 Olympics
In the build up to the debut of sport climbing in the 2020 Olympics, there…
Daily “Protective Training” Protocol for Stronger Finger Tendons and Pulleys
Climbing is hard on the finger flexor tendons and annular pulleys (A2 and such). If…