Podcast #29: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 4)

In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst…Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners, including in-depth coverage of effective hangboard training, the importance of developing a climbing “talent stack”, details on Threshold training for climbing-specific aerobic development, training while recovering from a lower-leg injury, training for middle-aged climbers, and more!

Podcast Rundown

1:35 – Question #1 – A two-part question on effective hangboard training…with a long, detailed answer offering rich guidance on developing strength and endurance using a hangboard. Part 1: Is it better to train on small edges with body weight or larger holds with added weight? Part 2: How does the length of rest between hangboard reps and sets effect the training adaptation?

19:15 – Question #2 – How can I find the proper training intensity when doing Threshold Intervals…to best develop my climbing-specific aerobic energy system? Listen to podcast #26 for a complete study of aerobic system training for climbing.

26:20 – Question #3 – I’m out of climbing for several months due to lower leg surgery…so, Eric, what kind of training do you suggest for me during this forced withdrawal from climbing?

32:37 – Question #4 – Why don’t you recommend any low-rep hypertrophy training for antagonist and core muscles?

38:01 – Question #5 – I get so incredibly pump—and quickly!—on steep routes. How can I assess my energy systems and determine which energy system (Aerobic or Anaerobic) I need to train? Can you give me some training advice? For a super detailed study of anaerobic lactic training, listen to podcasts #23 and #24.

44:32 – Question #6 – Climbing is now my passion, however I previously was a serious rugby player. How might I train to reduce the size (weight) of my rather large leg muscle? Eric also explains the importance of developing a climbing “talent stack”.

51:55 – Question #7 – I’m 47 years old (been climbing 28 years) and very experienced at hard multi-pitch routes…but I have also climbed 5.13a sport and V7 boulders. My goal is to climb some multi-pitch 5.12 routes, and I’d like to improve my physical fitness. What training do you recommend for someone my age?

Music by: Misty Murphy