Podcast #68 - Anatomy of a Redpoint Project and the "Send Go"

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Coach Hörst provides a transparent deconstruct of his mini-project during a recent trip to the Frankenjura. Gain insight into his thoughts, emotions, and problem-solving techniques in challenging his physical limitations (and fears) in pursuit of the redpoint.

I’ve got something different for you in this episode…which I hope that you’ll find revealing, instructive, and extremely beneficial. I will take you through the process of working my mini-project during a recent trip to Germany. I’ll share with you my thoughts, wide-ranging emotions, and problem-solving techniques in sussing out the beta, challenging my physical limitations (and fears), and going for the send on my final climbing day of the trip.

I trust you’ll find some techniques and tactics to adopt and adapt to improve your boulder or route projecting.

RUNDOWN

0:30 – And now for something completely different — I hope you love this podcast!

6:18 – Deconstructing a project route: HERCULES (5.13a/7c+) Learn about my 3-session journey of sussing beta, managing fears, and developing a strategy for the send.

13:40 – Session 1: Sussing the project.

15:40 – Session 2: Getting down to business…

16:20 – Address fears first. Working the first of 4 “chucks”….the unpleasant slab start.

22:52 – Working Chuck #2 – power climbing out a 25-foot overhanging wall and roof. Move by move beta is refined for efficiency and power conservation.

32:20 – Pro Tip: Taking “mental snapshots” of key holds.

34:25 – Dismissing phantom fears…

37:48 – Working chuck #3…the redpoint crux.

41:10 – Dialing in chuck #4…the anchor run.

44:00 – Time for two redpoint goes. So close! (Or, was I?)

50:40 – Message from the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

52:00 – HERCULES on my mind…for days! Visualization and game-changing beta ideas.

57:27 – Session 3 – Mother Nature provides a chance…but could Eric take down Hercules?

1:05:10 – Blow-by-blow commentary of the redpoint goes — a look inside the mind of Coach Horst.

1:12:00 – Closing comments. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!