Training Café #20 – Alex Megos Sends 5.15d...and Your Questions Answered!

Eric talks about Alex Megos sending Bibliography (5.15d/9c), and he speculates about the world’s first 5.16a/9c+. Then, he answers more than a dozen viewer questions!

Watch Episode #20 – Alex Megos sends 5.15d…and YOUR questions answered!

RUNDOWN:

0:05 – Sip with me…it’s Cafe & Kuchen time! 2:00 – Moving Training Cafe to Monday’s at Noon EST (1600GMT), 2:35 – Kudos to Alex Megos! Comments on his FA of Bibliography, the world’s second 5.15d/9c route. 5:00 – Thoughts about Adam Ondra and Alex Megos…and the potential to establish 5.16a/9c+ sometime in the next decade.

************** YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED! **********************

9:00 – Difference between supplementing protein with Whey versus vegan Powerplex versus Supercharged Collagen. https://physivantage.com/products/sup…
11:00 – How long does a warm-up for climbing or training last? Must a re-warm-up before a second session of the day? 14:30 – How useful is a climbing journal or training diary? 19:25 – What can I do for sore rear deltoid muscles? Strong shoulders matter! 22:30 – When I do campus training, how many sets should I do in a session? 26:10 – How concerning is a swollen PIP (middle) finger joint? More about capsulitis. 28:50 – Does it take a lot of training to advance from 5.11 to 5.12? 33:35 – Should I do bicep curls for climbing? Learn why big biceps are not beneficial to climbers. 36:00 – Should I consume a bedtime protein shake? 38:40 – Concerns about finger pain and climbing. 42:50 – Is there value in regular strength testing of KPIs? Comments about Tom Randall and Lattice training & testing rung. 46:20 – How much protein is needed per dose? Can you consume too much protein? 48:00 – How can I train to become a more dynamic climber? 50:25 – Is 1.2 to 2.0 grams of protein per kg body per day a good amount? 51:40 – Question about pain under PIP joint. 53:10 – Is creatine a good supplement for climbers? 54:30 – How can I get past the fear of falling? 56:00 – How much should I train pocket grips on a hangboard versus crimp and open hand? 57:30 – Check out Eric’s newest Training for Climbing podcast on iTunes, Spotify, or elsewhere.

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