Training Cafe #63 – Summer Climbing Conditions and Your Questions Answered!

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Sep 13, 2022 | Training Cafe Vodcast

Training Cafe #63 – Summer Climbing Conditions and Your Questions Answered!

In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Hörst discusses dealing with summer climbing conditions and answers viewer questions including how to train glutes and hamstrings, how to tape for A4 injuries, how to get started with double workout days, and more!

EPISODE time-stamps below — Scroll down!

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RUNDOWN

0:20 – Introductory comments from Lander, Wyoming with a review of the seasonal weather and updates on travel

1:30 – SIP COFFEE together — climbers around the world unite!

2:05 – World Cup comments and shoutouts 4:45 – Dealing with summer weather conditions

15:00 – YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED

15:35 – Effective training for 2 and 3 finger pockets?

20:35 – Exercises to strengthen glutes and hamstrings?

23:00 – Best methods for wrist strength training?

25:00 – How to come back strong from an LCL injury?

29:30 – What do tender tips of the elbows mean?

33:30 – Tips for managing inflammation on the big toe?

34:35 – How to get started with double workout days?

40:45 – Comment of thanks for Maximum Climbing and How to Climb 5.12!

42:00 – What can I expect when trying EndureX for the first time?

45:45 – How to tape for A4 injuries?

49:40 – Final comments….HAPPY CLIMBING!

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Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
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#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on

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・・・
👊 Sloper Stress: Key Insights for Climbers 👊

If you’ve been climbing for a while, you know that using slopers requires significantly more friction (indicated by the pink shading) compared to other types of holds. The greater the skin surface area in contact with the hold, the better you can apply downward force.

Slopers are designed with a downward slope and often lack sharp edges, which means your fingers are positioned at wider angles. This wider angle, viewed through the lens of the length-tension relationship (how muscle length affects its strength), is not ideal for generating force.

In this position, your wrist is more “passive” and stretched compared to when you’re gripping smaller, flatter holds. In contrast, when your wrist is in a flexed position (like in a half or full crimp), the length-tension relationship of your finger and wrist flexors improves, allowing for better force generation.

Due to the shape of slopers, climbers depend more on passive structures such as joint capsules, ligaments, and titin to maintain balance below the hands. Once skin contact is lost, the wrist flexes to create a plumb line (indicated by the green arrow) underneath. This flexed position places significant stress on the wrist’s ligaments.

Now, consider that the average strain on wrist ligaments increases when a climber is fatigued. As you tire, your muscles become less effective at protecting the joint, putting even more strain on the ligaments.

Actionable Takeaways:

1. Vary Your Holds: Regularly change the types of holds you use during practice.

2. No Added Weight: Focus on developing your skill with slopers without adding extra weight.

3. Strength Training: Incorporate exercises to improve forearm strength and recruitment.

4. Know When to Stop: End your climbing session when you notice a drop in coordination.

By following these guidelines, you can enhance your performance while minimizing the risk of injury.

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