Learn how to get the most out of your time spent training for climbing.
When it comes to effective training, the shiny new object isn’t always the answer…but rather getting back to the handful of proven exercises that offer 80% (or more) of the benefits you can reap from your climbing workouts.
00:40 – Time to talk training, climbing, and sip coffee together!
1:25 – Today’s topic: getting back to basics with your training
2:30 – Training in the 80’s – it was basic!
4:50 – 80% of your gains come from about 20% of the exercises and activities available.
5:30 – Diversify your training tools!
8:00 – Accurately assess your strengths and weaknesses and dedicate the bulk of your training to your weaknesses
9:40 – Some caveats
14:00 – Don’t overdo rigorous training!
15:00 – Recognize your ritual and make necessary tweaks as you progress
17:00 – Take note of your workouts
18:30 – Becoming an effective self coach is critical
19:00 – Plan your workouts in advance
20:00 – The best training program for you is one you’re not already doing! There’s always room for improvement.
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
20:30 – How should I be training 3.5 weeks out from a trip to the Red River Gorge?
24:25 – At-home exercises for training lower body and stability?
28:00 – How long can you span a performance period outside before returning to a training phase? Can outdoor sessions substitute for strength training?
32:20 – Can you give us your long plank protocol?
35:00– Is your supercharged collagen affected if you put it in hot coffee?
37:22 – I’ve been minimally loading on my hangboard twice a day, with a mandatory 6 hours in between sets. Thoughts?
39:05 – How should a training week look for a V9 boulderer about to start a power endurance block?
44:10 – Any advice for climber’s elbow that’s persisted 4 weeks now?
46:00 – If you do a max weighted hangboard session one day, and plan to do some onsight training the following day (at 60-70% effort), will you hinder your gains from the previous day?
49:20 – How hard should I climbing during the 4-week skill and stamina period of the 4-3-2-1 plan? Can I still project hard routes?
56:20 – How much time, daily, does it take for you to write in your training diary and analyze it?
58:48 – How would you use “commercial” climbing gyms to prepare best for outdoors?
1:00:10 – Do you have plans to develop a Training 4 Climbing app?
1:01:05 – How to continue to train and stay injury-free with limited tools
1:02:25 – Do you ship your supercharged collagen to Serbia or Poland?
1:03:10 – Do 3-2-1 preferred to DUP or can DUP with variation go year-round?
1:03:35 – Should I be holding each position when I foot campus or keep moving?
1:04:43 – I injured my back climbing after getting a massage. Is there any connection here?
1:06:18 – I read about a 4-3-2-1 periodization in your book, Training For Climbing. How do you keep the endurance that you build in the first 4 weeks if you change focus for the next 6 weeks (before performance week).
1:07:50 – What training method is compatible with more outdoor days – periodization or non-linear?
1:10:45 – Would using a grip strengthener in an isometric way count as prehab for the elbows?
1:11:45 – What is a good time frame on a critical force test?
THANK YOU: La Sportiva shoes, Maxim Ropes, DMM, Organic, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage!
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FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers