In this episode, Eric Hörst discusses effective core training for better performance. Sip your coffee and get all of your core strength questions answered!

RUNDOWN:

00:45​ – SHOUTOUT to 8a.nu
3:00​ – Congrats to to Alex Puccio and PhysiVantage athlete Drew Ruana on “boulderer of the year!”
4:05​ – Today’s topic: CORE TRAINING
5:30​ – Common misconceptions; There’s a lot more to core strength than just your abs (see more on complete core training HERE)
7:30​ – Core strength endurance
8:00​ – Breath work
9:50​ – Your core is more than just your abs!
11:00​ – Adjusting force vectors to make holds more positive; a stronger core CAN mean stronger fingers
13:30​ – A stronger core lends itself to more endurance
15:00​ – Underlying causes precipitating failure
18:00​ – Non-climbing exercises (click here for one of Eric Horst’s favorite core exercises)

********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********

24:00​ – Commentary on in-depth knowledge for climbing technique
27:07​ – Can you please suggest how to prevent unwanted muscle on legs, shoulders, and pecs?

31:27​ – Do you think I can manage to climb 7a/5.11d with only one climbing session per week and hangboard/conditioning sessions mixed in?
33:55​ – Is it possible to continue to make strength gains with a combination of hangboarding and outdoor climbing?
37:08​ – What aspects of training for climbing should women climbers focus on compared to men?
41:30​ – Can you give us an example of a well-structured core session?
46:22​ – I’m an advanced boulderer, climbing 8 years, doing my first winter block, and looking to make the next step in lockdown. How should I structure my week?
51:20​ – I struggle with flexibility, especially upper body. Any specific stretches you would recommend? How often?
55:07​ – Any chance for future T4C follow-along training videos?
56:53​ – What do you think about static holds?
1:00:40​ – How to recover and strengthen your finger after a knuckle injury?
1:00:22​ – Any training tips or guidelines for climbers over 40 who want to continue to progress?

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THANK YOU: La Sportiva shoes, Maxim Ropes, DMM, Organic, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage!

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