In this episode, learn tips for effective projecting a route or boulder problem, as well as the importance of a trust-the-process mindset.

Also, a bunch of great viewer questions answered!


0:15 – Welcome to a remote TC from Vegas!

1:00 – First, we shall commune with coffee. Raise a cup with me!

1:15 – SHOUT OUT to Drew Ruana, perhaps the world’s top boulderer this year, for sending his 10th V15 or harder boulder! Three of these were V16 ascents–watch videos here >>

1:55 – Incredible Drew has climbed and trained so hard for the past year without injury.

3:20 – Text message from Drew about keeping his fingers and skin healthy. Learn Drew’s secret here >>

5:40 – MAIN TOPIC: Effective Projecting…and Trusting the Process.

7:00 – The 6 steps/phases of effective projecting…

7:45 – Step 1: Picking the right project for you in the context of your current situation. Do you want/need to send it quickly?

9:00 – What type of project routes will make you a better climber?

10:20 – Step 2: Chuck down the route or boulder problem into 2 to 5 logical parts.

10:45 – Example: My project route “Warlords” at Mt. Charleston…and how I approached this route.

15:10 – Step 3: Work the route bolt to bolt to size up the sequences…then get to work on the crux chunk.

17:45 – Step 4: Identify the FEELING of doing the hardest moves the right way. CRITICAL!

19:25 – Learn the SECRET to succeeding on the crux sequence…

21:43 – Step 5: Begin linking chunks…from the crux chunk to the top, before beginning redpoint attempts from the ground.

23:05 – Step 6: Begin redpoint attempts from the ground.

24:00 – The “surprise send” phenomenon!

25:15 – Trust the process and let the send happen organically.

26:17 – What to do if your project becomes stressful…due to lack of progress over several days of work?

27:24 – About my “10-4 Rule” of projecting. Read more here >>



28:45 – Question: What time of day does your body most synthesis collagen…in tendons and ligaments? When to train/rehab tendons….and consume collagen to support the process?

32:00 – The value of doing 2 or 3 shorter workouts per day rather than 1 long session.

32:30 – Learn about the tendon training process cycle here >>

34:10 – How best to engage in ARC training for climbing-specific endurance?

37:40 – How to train when I don’t have access to a climbing gym?

39:22 – How much rest should I take between dedicated training blocks?

42:32 – Learn the benefits of a DELOAD week!

43:35 – Is there value in using fascial release tools?

46:00 – Comments about overuse injuries in climbers…

47:17 – What are some off-the-wall exercises and stretching that I can do, especially on rest days?

49:20 – When will PhysiVantage be available in Europe?

50:40 – Use of a DUP training schedule rather than a conventional periodization scheme.

51:50 – Learn how I apply a DUP training scheme when I’m climbing most weekends.

55:10 – How can I stay in shape while on a 2-year mission out of the country?


THANK YOU:  La Sportiva shoes, Maxim Ropes, DMM, Organic, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage!

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