Learn an advanced hangboard training protocol for developing maximum finger strength for climbing.
In this video, Cameron Hörst details the 7/53 hangboard protocol for building finger strength. Execute this program twice per week, and you will elevate your finger strength in a few short weeks!
1. Do a thorough warm-up with a few bodyweight pull-ups and large-hold hangs, dynamic stretching, and a few minutes of generalized cardio, if possible. A 20- to 30-minute progressive warm-up is ideal.
2. Determine your proper training weight—the amount of weight you can add and successfully hold a single 10-second hang on ~20mm hold.
3. Do one set of three 7-second hangs with the “training weight”. Rest exactly 53 seconds between the hangs.
4. After completing all three hangs (one set), take a 3- to 5-minute rest before proceding to you next set of three 7-second hangs.
5. Do a total of 3 to 5 sets of this 7/53 hangboard protocol. If your training weight is right…the last set should be struggle to complete. If not, then consider adding 5 or 10 pounds to your training weight for the next workout.
6. I recommend using this 5 x 5 program twice per week, ideally on a gym bouldering or “strength/power-training” day. Warning: Do not use this hangboard protocol during a period of performance climbing (outside climbing or competition), as your nervous system may not be fully recovered to climb your very best.
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