Here’s a short video, featuring the powerful Alex Megos and climbing icon Jerry Moffatt, that delves into the process of training for a specific crux sequence on your yet-to-be-sent project.
The time-tested training strategy is to configure a simulator of the route’s hardest moves. Logging lots of reps on this simulator will refine nervous system motor programs for more efficient, nuanced movement; it also targets the muscles in a very specific way to develop route-specific strength and power. Alex Megos did just this in preparing for his ascent (third) of Lucid Dreaming V15.
Many climbers find that training just a few sessions on the simulator problem is a real difference-maker. The send, then, might be just a few redpoint tries away!
Of course, mental training is often just as important as physical training when it comes to sending your project or opening up the next grade. You can learn more about mental training from Moffatt’s popular book, MasterMind, as well as from Horst’s, Maximum Climbing.
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