Advanced Hangboard Training Techniques for Developing Finger Strength

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Learn an advanced one-handed hangboard training protocol for developing maximum finger strength.

In this video, Cameron Hörst details his one-handed hangboard protocol for building finger strength. This is a very difficult training method appropriate only for well-trained individuals capable of climbing in the range of 5.13/8a/V9 or above. If you’re not quite up to these grades, then I recommend you watch Cameron’s previous Hangboard Training video Part 1 (shown below) for an excellent hangboard protocol for safely building base strength with two-handed training techniques.

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One-Handed Hangboard Training Details:

1. Do a thorough warm-up with a few bodyweight pull-ups and large-hold hangs and a few minutes of generalized cardio, if possible. A 20- to 30-minute progressive warm-up is ideal.

2.Using a 20 to 24mm edge, do a 5-second one-handed hang. If you’re new to one-handed hangboaang, you’ll want to use a helper sling or counterweight system to hold with your free hand–pull just enough weight with the free hand to allow you to successfully grip the hangboard hold for 5 seconds.

3. Now, do a one-handed hang with the other hand gripping the hangboard.

4. Rest 3 to 5 minutes, before doing the next set of one-handed hangs with each hand.

4. Continue for up to 5 or 6 hangs with each hand. Train with both the half crimp and open crimp grips. Especially strong climbers can also do a hang or two with the three-finger drag and two-finger pocket grips. Be very careful and listen to your body–do not to tempt injury!

5. Once you can do all five one-handed hangs at bodyweight (no helper sling or counterweight), you can increase the difficulty by holding a weight in the free hand. Begin with a 2- to 5-pound weight. Progressively add weight (over months and years) as your maximum finger strength increases.

6. Limit the use of this difficult max-strength training protocol to just two days per week.

PRO TIP: Learn about the importance of protein in supporting training adaptations and reducing injury risk >>

Two-Handed Hangboard Strength Training Protocol:

In this video, Cameron Hörst details the 7/53 hangboard protocol for building finger strength. Execute this program twice per week, and you will elevate your finger strength in a few short weeks!

Follow Cameron Hörst on Instagram at Cameron_Horst11 and do subscribe to his YouTube channel!

Training Details:

1. Do a thorough warm-up with a few bodyweight pull-ups and large-hold hangs, dynamic stretching, and a few minutes of generalized cardio, if possible. A 20- to 30-minute progressive warm-up is ideal.

2. Determine your proper training weight—the amount of weight you can add and successfully hold a single 10-second hang on ~20mm hold.

3. Do one set of three 7-second hangs with the “training weight”. Rest exactly 53 seconds between the hangs.

4. After completing all three hangs (one set), take a 3- to 5-minute rest before proceeding to your next set of three 7-second hangs.

5. Do a total of 3 to 5 sets of this 7/53 hangboard protocol. If your training weight is right…the last set should be a struggle to complete. If not, then consider adding 5 or 10 pounds to your training weight for the next workout.

6. I recommend using this 5 x 5 program twice per week, ideally on a gym bouldering or “strength/power-training” day. Warning: Do not use this hangboard protocol during a period of performance climbing (outside climbing or competition), as your nervous system may not be fully recovered to climb your very best.

PRO TIP: Learn what nutritional supplement top climbers use to develop stronger finger tendons and pulleys >>

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