Browse: Home / Advanced Hangboard Training Techniques for Developing Finger Strength

Menu

Skip to content
Header image

Training For Climbing – by Eric HörstLogo

Train Smarter, Climb Harder!

Menu

Skip to content
  • About
    • Welcome to the New T4C!
    • About T4C
    • Eric’s Biography
    • Eric’s Publishing Resume
    • Eric’s Books (1994 – present)
    • Meet the Hörst Family!
    • Testimonials
    • Terms of Use
    • Contact Eric
  • Knowledge Base
  • Multimedia
  • Buy Books
    • Training for Climbing (3rd edition)
    • The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide
    • Gimme Kraft!
    • Jerry Moffatt’s MASTERMIND
    • Gimme Kraft! – AIR
    • Maximum Climbing
    • One Move Too Many
    • Bouldering Essentials
    • Climbing Injuries Solved
    • How To Climb 5.12
    • Learning to Climb Indoors
    • The Young Savages
    • Rock Climbing: VA/MD/WV
  • Training Tools
    • Endless Rope Trainer
  • Research
  • Coaching
  • Links

Advanced Hangboard Training Techniques for Developing Finger Strength

Posted by Eric Hörst on December 1, 2020 in Train Body, Training Videos | 4,976 Views | Leave a response
Share479
Tweet
Pin
Email
479 Shares

Learn an advanced one-handed hangboard training protocol for developing maximum finger strength.

In this video, Cameron Hörst details his one-handed hangboard protocol for building finger strength. This is a very difficult training method appropriate only for well-trained individuals capable of climbing in the range of 5.13/8a/V9 or above. If you’re not quite up to these grades, then I recommend you watch Cameron’s previous Hangboard Training video Part 1 (shown below) for an excellent hangboard protocol for safely building base strength with two-handed training techniques.

Subscribe to Cameron’s YouTube channel here >>

One-Handed Hangboard Training Details:

1. Do a thorough warm-up with a few bodyweight pull-ups and large-hold hangs and a few minutes of generalized cardio, if possible. A 20- to 30-minute progressive warm-up is ideal.

2.Using a 20 to 24mm edge, do a 5-second one-handed hang. If you’re new to one-handed hangboaang, you’ll want to use a helper sling or counterweight system to hold with your free hand–pull just enough weight with the free hand to allow you to successfully grip the hangboard hold for 5 seconds.

3. Now, do a one-handed hang with the other hand gripping the hangboard.

4. Rest 3 to 5 minutes, before doing the next set of one-handed hangs with each hand.

4. Continue for up to 5 or 6 hangs with each hand. Train with both the half crimp and open crimp grips. Especially strong climbers can also do a hang or two with the three-finger drag and two-finger pocket grips. Be very careful and listen to your body–do not to tempt injury!

5. Once you can do all five one-handed hangs at bodyweight (no helper sling or counterweight), you can increase the difficulty by holding a weight in the free hand. Begin with a 2- to 5-pound weight. Progressively add weight (over months and years) as your maximum finger strength increases.

6. Limit the use of this difficult max-strength training protocol to just two days per week.

PRO TIP: Learn about the importance of protein in supporting training adaptations and reducing injury risk >>


Two-Handed Hangboard Strength Training Protocol:

In this video, Cameron Hörst details the 7/53 hangboard protocol for building finger strength. Execute this program twice per week, and you will elevate your finger strength in a few short weeks!

Follow Cameron Hörst on Instagram at Cameron_Horst11 and do subscribe to his YouTube channel!

Training Details:

1. Do a thorough warm-up with a few bodyweight pull-ups and large-hold hangs, dynamic stretching, and a few minutes of generalized cardio, if possible. A 20- to 30-minute progressive warm-up is ideal.

2. Determine your proper training weight—the amount of weight you can add and successfully hold a single 10-second hang on ~20mm hold.

3. Do one set of three 7-second hangs with the “training weight”. Rest exactly 53 seconds between the hangs.

4. After completing all three hangs (one set), take a 3- to 5-minute rest before proceeding to your next set of three 7-second hangs.

5. Do a total of 3 to 5 sets of this 7/53 hangboard protocol. If your training weight is right…the last set should be a struggle to complete. If not, then consider adding 5 or 10 pounds to your training weight for the next workout.

6. I recommend using this 5 x 5 program twice per week, ideally on a gym bouldering or “strength/power-training” day. Warning: Do not use this hangboard protocol during a period of performance climbing (outside climbing or competition), as your nervous system may not be fully recovered to climb your very best.

PRO TIP: Learn what nutritional supplement top climbers use to develop stronger finger tendons and pulleys >>

Related Links:

  • The Ultimate Guide to Hangboard Training. Learn five finger-training protocols that work!
  • Rotator Cuff Training for Climbers. Watch the video now >>
  • Subscribe to the Training for Climbing podcast! Available on Spotify, Stitcher, iTunes and elsewhere.

Copyright © 2000–2020 Training For Climbing, LLC | All Rights Reserved.

Posted in Train Body, Training Videos | Tagged finger training, fingerboard training, one-handed hangboard training

Stronger Tendons. Fewer Injuries. Really!

supercharged collagen for climbers

Research-based connective tissue, joint, and muscle matrix support for climbers.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

#1 International Best Seller!

Eric Horst's Training for Climbing, 3rd edition, 2016.

Click the book cover to learn about this international best-seller!

Beat the Pump with Endure X!

Endure X Performance Drink by PhysiVantage

Increase your power endurance, stamina, and recovery between repeated efforts in training and climbing!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Lattice Testing & Training Rung

Lattice Testing & Training Rung

Learn more >>

Premium Protein for Muscle Strength/Power Gains & Faster Recovery

Weapons-Grade Whey Protein Complex by PhysiVantage

The first recovery protein designed for climbers! Feel the Weapons-Grade difference.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Introducing PowerPlex Plant-Based Protein!

Powerplex Plant-Based Protein

The Most Advanced Plant-Based Protein and Collagen Alternative for Vegans!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Knowledge Base

  • Train Body
  • Train Technique & Skills
  • Train Mind
  • Train Strategy
  • The Hurt Locker (Injury)
  • Youth Training
  • Climbing Mastery
  • Nutrition & Recovery
  • Research
  • Gimme Kraft! Videos
  • Basic Training
  • Climbing 101
  • T4C Videos
  • T4C Podcasts

Connect with T4C on Facebook!

Footer logo
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • RSS Feed
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

Follow T4C on . . .twitter_logo1facebook-sm

 
 

Popular

  • Training Programs for Climbers (T4C free download!)

    205010 views / Posted July 10, 2019
  • fingerboard training

    4 Fingerboard Training Protocols That Work

    151377 views / Posted November 1, 2016
  • The Best Climbing Exercise You’re Not Doing: The Scapular Pull-up!

    111693 views / Posted September 2, 2020
  • Treating “Climber’s Elbow”

    77815 views / Posted September 1, 2016
 
 

©2020 Eric J. Hörst - All Rights Reserved | Training For Climbing, LLC

Menu

Subscribe to Training For Climbing Newsletter


(Your email address will NOT be shared or sold, and you can unsubscribe at any time.)