Take your targeted finger training to the next level. Learn a one-handed, advanced hangboard training protocol for developing maximum finger strength.
(This article was originally published in December of 2020, but theis advanced hangboard training technique still rings true today.)
In this video, Cameron Hörst details his one-handed, advanced hangboard training protocol for building finger strength. Head’s up: this is a very difficult training method appropriate only for well-trained individuals capable of climbing in the range of 5.13/8a/V9 or above. If you’re not quite hitting these grades yet, then I recommend starting with Cameron’s previous Hangboard Training Video in the second section of this post for an excellent intermediate-to-advanced hangboard training protocol using two-handed techniques to safely build base strength. Make sure to subscribe to Cameron’s YouTube channel as well for ongoing training support!
One-Handed Advanced Hangboard Training Details:
1. Perform a thorough warm-up complete with a few bodyweight pull-ups and large-hold hangs and a few minutes of generalized cardio. Aim for a 20- to 30-minute progressive warm-up.
2. Using a 20 to 24mm edge, do a five-second one-handed hang. If you’re new to one-handed hangboarding, you’ll want to hold a helper sling or counterweight system with your free hand. Pull just enough weight with the free hand to allow you to successfully grip the hangboard hold for five seconds.
3. Now, switch sides and do a one-handed hang with the other hand on the hangboard.
4. Rest three to five minutes before doing the next set of one-handed hangs with each hand.
4. Continue for up to five or six hangs with each hand. Train with both the half crimp and open crimp grips. Especially strong climbers can also perform a hang or two using the three-finger drag and two-finger pocket grips. Be very careful and listen to your body. Do not flirt with injury!
5. Once you can do all five one-handed hangs at bodyweight (without a helper sling or counterweight), you can increase the difficulty by holding a weight in the free hand. Begin with a two to five pound weight. Progressively add weight (over months and years) as your maximum finger strength increases.
6. Limit the use of this intense max-strength training protocol to just two days per week.
Two-Handed Hangboard Strength Training Protocol:
Need somewhere to start before executing the one-handed protocol? In this video, Cameron Hörst details the 7/53 two-handed hangboard protocol for building finger strength. Follow this program twice per week to elevate your finger strength in a few short weeks!
1. Do a thorough warm-up with a few bodyweight pull-ups and large-hold hangs, dynamic stretching, and a few minutes of generalized cardio. Aim for a 20- to 30-minute progressive warm-up.
2. Determine your proper training weight: the amount of weight you can add and successfully hold a single 10-second hang on ~20mm hold.
3. Do one set of three seven-second hangs with the “training weight”. Rest exactly 53 seconds between the hangs.
4. After completing all three hangs (i.e. one set), take a three to five minute rest before proceeding to your next set of three seven-second hangs.
5. Do a total of three to five sets of this 7/53 hangboard protocol. If your training weight is right, the last set should be a struggle to complete! If not, then consider adding five or 10 pounds to your training weight for the next workout.
6. I recommend using this program twice per week, ideally on a gym bouldering or “strength/power-training” day. Warning: Do not use this hangboard protocol during a period of performance climbing (outside climbing or competition), as your nervous system may not be fully recovered to climb your very best.
- The Ultimate Guide to Hangboard Training
- Intro to Hangboard Training
- 3 Hangboard Tests to Gauge Your Climbing Ability
- Should You Hangboard Train During Your Performance Climbing Season?
- Rotator Cuff Training for Climbers
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