Training Cafe #70 – Training Around Injuries and Your Questions Answered!

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Feb 9, 2023 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Training Cafe Vodcast

Training Cafe #70 – Training Around Injuries and Your Questions Answered!

In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Hörst talks about how you can continue training during periods of injury rehab/recovery. He also answers viewer training questions on developing work capacity, climbing while sick, adjusting a training program when recovering from an injury, and more!

EPISODE time-stamps below — Scroll down!

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RUNDOWN

0:30 – Introductory comments from home

1:30 – Topic of discussion: Training around (not through) injuries

2:30 – How climbing exerts wear and tear on the body

3:30 – Strengthening soft tissue to withstand more stress

4:30 – Climbing “around” versus climbing “through” an injury

11:30 – Eric’s current experience with finger injury management

13:30 – Shoulder injuries

17:30 – SIP COFFEE together — Climbers around the world unite!

19:00 – How can improving work capacity help limit injuries?

24:00 – Training while sick 27:00 – Managing synovitis

28:30 – Adjusting a training program while recovering from an injury

34:00 – Complications from compensations in movement from injuries

39:00 – Final comments and happy climbing!

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#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on

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・・・
👊 Sloper Stress: Key Insights for Climbers 👊

If you’ve been climbing for a while, you know that using slopers requires significantly more friction (indicated by the pink shading) compared to other types of holds. The greater the skin surface area in contact with the hold, the better you can apply downward force.

Slopers are designed with a downward slope and often lack sharp edges, which means your fingers are positioned at wider angles. This wider angle, viewed through the lens of the length-tension relationship (how muscle length affects its strength), is not ideal for generating force.

In this position, your wrist is more “passive” and stretched compared to when you’re gripping smaller, flatter holds. In contrast, when your wrist is in a flexed position (like in a half or full crimp), the length-tension relationship of your finger and wrist flexors improves, allowing for better force generation.

Due to the shape of slopers, climbers depend more on passive structures such as joint capsules, ligaments, and titin to maintain balance below the hands. Once skin contact is lost, the wrist flexes to create a plumb line (indicated by the green arrow) underneath. This flexed position places significant stress on the wrist’s ligaments.

Now, consider that the average strain on wrist ligaments increases when a climber is fatigued. As you tire, your muscles become less effective at protecting the joint, putting even more strain on the ligaments.

Actionable Takeaways:

1. Vary Your Holds: Regularly change the types of holds you use during practice.

2. No Added Weight: Focus on developing your skill with slopers without adding extra weight.

3. Strength Training: Incorporate exercises to improve forearm strength and recruitment.

4. Know When to Stop: End your climbing session when you notice a drop in coordination.

By following these guidelines, you can enhance your performance while minimizing the risk of injury.

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