In this fascinating podcast, Eric Hörst provides a deep and thoughtful overview of the research on the role genetics plays in sports prowess and climbing performance.

Leveraging his decades of experience as a climbing coach and 30 years engaging with climbing researchers, Eric tells an empowering story of how the average climber can pursue peak climbing performance.


0:15 – Welcome

0:40 – First in a series of podcasts examining the role of genetics, physical strength/power, body weight, and dietary and nutritional practices on training adaptions and climbing performance.

2:06 – The focus of this podcast is the fascinating topic of the role that genetics play in determining climbing performance.

2:30 – Brief backstory on Eric and Training For Climbing.

5:00 – Intro to the role genetics play in climbing performance. Eric describes the 4 parts of this podcast:

  1. Eric will share his general observations about climbing performance given his 46 years as a climber…and 30+ years as a climbing researcher and coach.
  2. Next, Eric will provide a research-based overview of the role genetic traits play in sports performance in general.
  3. Eric will drill down into the data on the influence genetics might have in determining maximal bouldering and lead climbing performance.
  4. Eric provides a coaching perspective for the mass of climbing wanting to improve in climbing. How meaningful, really, are genetics in determining how the average passionate climber will perform over the years as a gym climber, boulderer, or lead climber?

6:05 – Part 1: Eric’s general observations and 4 powerful take-home points about climbing as a recreational activity and sport.

10:00 – Part 2: The Role of Genetics in athletic performance…and sports in general. What does genetic research reveal?

18:42 – Part 3: What Role does genetics play in climbing? What does the research reveal?

30:15 –  A word from this podcast’s sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or to get your PhysiVantage!

32:00 – Part 4: The real-life implications of the genetic research…and what it means passionate climbers wanting to excel at this sport?

37:45 – A brief look at epigenetics — the study of how our behaviors and environment can cause changes that affect the way our genes work. How can we play a role in epigenetic changes…to improve health, fitness, and climbing performance?

40:45 – Summary of key points and actionable items.

43:30 – Best best climber in the world is….

43:45 – PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

44:00 – Check out PhysiVantage Nutrition — Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).

44:35 – Closing comments — Horst Out!

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Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

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And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

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