In this fascinating podcast, Eric Hörst provides a deep and thoughtful overview of the research on the role genetics plays in sports prowess and climbing performance.
Leveraging his decades of experience as a climbing coach and 30 years engaging with climbing researchers, Eric tells an empowering story of how the average climber can pursue peak climbing performance.
0:15 – Welcome
0:40 – First in a series of podcasts examining the role of genetics, physical strength/power, body weight, and dietary and nutritional practices on training adaptions and climbing performance.
2:06 – The focus of this podcast is the fascinating topic of the role that genetics play in determining climbing performance.
2:30 – Brief backstory on Eric and Training For Climbing.
5:00 – Intro to the role genetics play in climbing performance. Eric describes the 4 parts of this podcast:
- Eric will share his general observations about climbing performance given his 46 years as a climber…and 30+ years as a climbing researcher and coach.
- Next, Eric will provide a research-based overview of the role genetic traits play in sports performance in general.
- Eric will drill down into the data on the influence genetics might have in determining maximal bouldering and lead climbing performance.
- Eric provides a coaching perspective for the mass of climbing wanting to improve in climbing. How meaningful, really, are genetics in determining how the average passionate climber will perform over the years as a gym climber, boulderer, or lead climber?
6:05 – Part 1: Eric’s general observations and 4 powerful take-home points about climbing as a recreational activity and sport.
10:00 – Part 2: The Role of Genetics in athletic performance…and sports in general. What does genetic research reveal?
18:42 – Part 3: What Role does genetics play in climbing? What does the research reveal?
30:15 – A word from this podcast’s sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
32:00 – Part 4: The real-life implications of the genetic research…and what it means passionate climbers wanting to excel at this sport?
37:45 – A brief look at epigenetics — the study of how our behaviors and environment can cause changes that affect the way our genes work. How can we play a role in epigenetic changes…to improve health, fitness, and climbing performance?
40:45 – Summary of key points and actionable items.
43:30 – Best best climber in the world is….
43:45 – PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
44:00 – Check out PhysiVantage Nutrition — Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).
44:35 – Closing comments — Horst Out!
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Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.