Category: Climbing Mastery

Podcast #107: Tips for Preventing the Punt!

Posted by Eric Hörst | Oct 16, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Podcasts, Train Mind, Train Strategy

7 “Last-Minute” Keys to Climbing Your ...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Oct 5, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Train Strategy

Podcast #102: The Road to 5.13 – Part 4: Clo...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Aug 9, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Podcasts

10 Mental Strategies to Improve Climbing Performan...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jul 20, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Train Mind

Slowing the Pump Clock: 5 Strategies to Improve Yo...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jul 1, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Nutrition & Recovery, Train Strategy, Train Technique & Skills

T4C Podcast #100: Ten Secrets to Climbing Harder!

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jun 11, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Podcasts

5 Tips for Improving Your Climbing Efficiency (and Climbing WAY Harder!)

by Eric Hörst | Oct 16, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Technique & Skills, Training Articles

Climbing harder isn’t always about working harder. Learn five techniques to help improve...

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6 Concentration Drills to Improve Your Climbing Focus

by Lucie Hanes | Jul 3, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Mind

All the physical preparedness in the world won’t get you very far without the mental skills...

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Project-Specific Training with Indoor Simulator Problems

by Eric Hörst | Jun 30, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Body, Training Videos

Bring your project home with you! Indoor simulator training is one of the most effective ways to...

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3 Hangboard Tests to Gauge Your Climbing Ability

by Lucie Hanes | Jun 28, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Body

Strong climbing comes down to more than just finger strength…but it’s still an...

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Mastering Climbing Movement with Proprioception and “Process Feedback”

by Eric Hörst | Jun 6, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Mind, Train Technique & Skills, Training Articles

Climbing your best is all about efficiency of movement. Mastering that skill requires tuning into...

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Tips for an Effective First Effort on a Climbing Project

by Lucie Hanes | Jun 2, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Strategy

Don’t try to tackle a new project the same way you would an onsight attempt. If you’re...

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Overcoming the Fear of Failure

by Eric Hörst | Jun 1, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Mind

Some kinds of fear are normal and necessary for the sake of safety in climbing. But the fear of...

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Overnight Recovery Tactics for Weekend Warriors

by Lucie Hanes | Apr 27, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Nutrition & Recovery

The typical weekend warrior schedule doesn’t leave much room for rest between hard outdoor...

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How to Train Optimally…and Become a Maximum Climber

by Eric Hörst | Mar 13, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Mind, Train Technique & Skills

Maximum climbing isn’t the same as training yourself into the ground. It’s more about...

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Self-Discipline & Commitment: The Great Equalizers

by Eric Hörst | Feb 20, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Motivation, Train Mind

There’s more to climbing than physical prowess. Success ultimately comes down to two mental...

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15 Bouldering Tips from Climbing Pros

by Lucie Hanes | Jan 9, 2023 | Athlete Spotlights, Climbing Mastery

Level up your bouldering with these tips from the PhysiVāntage pros! Like everything else in...

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Mental Mastery Skills to Stretch Your Limits

by Eric Hörst | Oct 17, 2022 | Climbing Mastery, Train Mind, Training Articles

Physical ability isn’t the only limiting factor when it comes to climbing your best. Improve...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training season is coming in hit. Everyone wants to maximize their outdoor sessions but the winter is a great opportunity to build up for what is to come in the spring. Check out the new T4C article and learn how to build a winter routine and what are important focuses Ik following an outdoor stint. Click the link in bio for Transitioning from Cragging to Training!
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#climbing #climb #trainingforclimbing #tranining

Are you at the point in your climbing where you ar

Are you at the point in your climbing where you are ready to begin hangboarding, or want a new protocol to check out? If you’ve been climbing long enough and feel ready to begin a higher end workout you are in the right place. A detailed one arm, and 2 arm protocol is outlined on the Training for Climbing website. So check out the article and the associated videos in the Advanced Hangboarding link in bio!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbing #hangboarding #physivantage

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast d

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast dropped today! In this episode Coach Hörst talks about 13 actionable tactics and strategies that play a huge role in your climbing performance. Ranging from personal control of your body, to timing and mentality. Check out the link in bio to access the podcast or listen wherever you find your episodes.
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#trainingforclimbingpodcast #climb #climbing #training

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my r

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my rucksack. This is the first in a new series of “Quick Tips” — subscribe to the Training For Climbing channel for notice of future videos!

👉Watch video at the link in our bio!

#climbingtraining #climbing #performance La Sportiva

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs climbing days. Whether that means more goes on a project, more threshold for an individual route, or simply more pitches in a day. The question is how do you know to focus on this style of climbing while training or while climbing outside? It is critical to understand the difference between the aerobic and anaerobic energy system. Check out the link in bio for Anaerobic vs Aerobic training!
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#climb #climbing #trainingforclimbing #training

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certa

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certain Mondays Coach Hörst hosts a live training cafe on the train gìn for climbing YouTube Channel! Check out the posting from this week and tune in for future episodes to get your climbing/training/performance questions answered!
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#training #climbing #trainingforclimbing #trainingcafe

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast with Coach Hörst! Episode 107 focuses on dialing in your game in the final days leading up to your projecting season. A primary focus of this podcast is how to prevent the pun, which we all know you need! Check it out wherever you get your podcasts, and leave a review!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbingpodcast

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on sloper nuances!
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👊 Sloper Stress: Key Insights for Climbers 👊

If you’ve been climbing for a while, you know that using slopers requires significantly more friction (indicated by the pink shading) compared to other types of holds. The greater the skin surface area in contact with the hold, the better you can apply downward force.

Slopers are designed with a downward slope and often lack sharp edges, which means your fingers are positioned at wider angles. This wider angle, viewed through the lens of the length-tension relationship (how muscle length affects its strength), is not ideal for generating force.

In this position, your wrist is more “passive” and stretched compared to when you’re gripping smaller, flatter holds. In contrast, when your wrist is in a flexed position (like in a half or full crimp), the length-tension relationship of your finger and wrist flexors improves, allowing for better force generation.

Due to the shape of slopers, climbers depend more on passive structures such as joint capsules, ligaments, and titin to maintain balance below the hands. Once skin contact is lost, the wrist flexes to create a plumb line (indicated by the green arrow) underneath. This flexed position places significant stress on the wrist’s ligaments.

Now, consider that the average strain on wrist ligaments increases when a climber is fatigued. As you tire, your muscles become less effective at protecting the joint, putting even more strain on the ligaments.

Actionable Takeaways:

1. Vary Your Holds: Regularly change the types of holds you use during practice.

2. No Added Weight: Focus on developing your skill with slopers without adding extra weight.

3. Strength Training: Incorporate exercises to improve forearm strength and recruitment.

4. Know When to Stop: End your climbing session when you notice a drop in coordination.

By following these guidelines, you can enhance your performance while minimizing the risk of injury.

#rockclimbing #climbingtraining #climbingperformance #climbstrong #climbingdoctor #usaclimbing #performanceclimbingcoach #ifsc #wristinjury #training4climbing #climbinglife

If you missed it, check out episode 102 of the Tra

If you missed it, check out episode 102 of the Training For Climbing podcast. This episode, released a few months ago is the fourth iteration of the road to 5.13 for @thestruggleclimbingshow . Ryan has been inching closer to his goal of 13a and hopefully this fall it goes down! Give this episode a listen for some coaching that you can apply to your own projects this season! Click the link in bio to find it, or listen wherever you get podcasts!
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#climb #training #trainingforclimbing #fallclimbing #climbing

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