Category: Gimme Kraft!

Watch Movie Now! ROTPUNKT — The Story of Redpoint Climbing…and Alex Megos

by Eric Hörst | Nov 18, 2019 | Climbing Mastery, Gimme Kraft!, Motivation

If you’re a core climber, then this is a must-watch film — in my opinion, it’s one of...

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Video: Training for the Crux

by Eric Hörst | Mar 1, 2019 | Gimme Kraft!, Train Strategy, Training Videos

Here’s a short video, featuring the powerful Alex Megos and climbing icon Jerry Moffatt,...

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Training Like It’s 1989!

by Eric Hörst | Apr 23, 2016 | Gimme Kraft!, Training Articles

“Training like it’s 1989!” – An interview with climbing legend, Jerry...

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Video: Be Strong Like Alex (Megos) Parts 1 & 2

by Eric Hörst | Dec 26, 2015 | Gimme Kraft!, Training Articles

Here are two great boulder-training videos featuring German rockstar, Alex Megos. In case...

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Video: Shauna Coxsey Trains with Alex Megos at Cafe Kraft

by Eric Hörst | Dec 1, 2015 | Gimme Kraft!, Training Articles

Shauna Coxsey is an English boulderer who, in the past two years, has climbed V14 and stood on the...

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Mayan and Nóra Train Together at Café Kraft

by Eric Hörst | Aug 19, 2015 | Gimme Kraft!, Training Articles

In this Gimme Kraft! video, you’ll see a brief interview with Hungarian climber Nóra...

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Matilda Söderlund Trains at Café Kafe

by Eric Hörst | Mar 1, 2015 | Gimme Kraft!, Training Articles

This new Gimme Kraft! video features Matilda Söderlund, a Swedish climber who burst onto the...

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Sachi Amma Gettin’ Kraft!

by Eric Hörst | Feb 22, 2015 | Gimme Kraft!, Training Articles

This Gimme Kraft! video shows Japan’s Sachi Amma visiting Cafe Kraft coach Dicki Korb,...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

Training while on climbing trips? If you’re in a

Training while on climbing trips? If you’re in a prolonged climbing trip, how do you balance maintaining high end strength/power while also staying fresh and maximizing outdoor days? There are a few circumstances where you can add in some training to stay in top strength. First, If you get a period of poor weather, rather than resting for multiple days, throw in a training session where you can focus on some areas not touched outside (perhaps bouldering, max fingers, isometrics, or power). Another option is at the end of a day where you did not get a full outdoor workout in, and are leading into a rest day. This gives the opportunity to finish your day with a challenging workout before a coming rest day. In this video Alex takes advantage of a rainy day at the Red River Gorge training max finger strength to stay primed for pulling hard on an outdoor project!
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#climb #training #trainingforclimbing #trainingtips #climbing

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training season is coming in hit. Everyone wants to maximize their outdoor sessions but the winter is a great opportunity to build up for what is to come in the spring. Check out the new T4C article and learn how to build a winter routine and what are important focuses Ik following an outdoor stint. Click the link in bio for Transitioning from Cragging to Training!
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#climbing #climb #trainingforclimbing #tranining

Are you at the point in your climbing where you ar

Are you at the point in your climbing where you are ready to begin hangboarding, or want a new protocol to check out? If you’ve been climbing long enough and feel ready to begin a higher end workout you are in the right place. A detailed one arm, and 2 arm protocol is outlined on the Training for Climbing website. So check out the article and the associated videos in the Advanced Hangboarding link in bio!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbing #hangboarding #physivantage

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast d

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast dropped today! In this episode Coach Hörst talks about 13 actionable tactics and strategies that play a huge role in your climbing performance. Ranging from personal control of your body, to timing and mentality. Check out the link in bio to access the podcast or listen wherever you find your episodes.
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#trainingforclimbingpodcast #climb #climbing #training

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my r

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my rucksack. This is the first in a new series of “Quick Tips” — subscribe to the Training For Climbing channel for notice of future videos!

👉Watch video at the link in our bio!

#climbingtraining #climbing #performance La Sportiva

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs climbing days. Whether that means more goes on a project, more threshold for an individual route, or simply more pitches in a day. The question is how do you know to focus on this style of climbing while training or while climbing outside? It is critical to understand the difference between the aerobic and anaerobic energy system. Check out the link in bio for Anaerobic vs Aerobic training!
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#climb #climbing #trainingforclimbing #training

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certa

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certain Mondays Coach Hörst hosts a live training cafe on the train gìn for climbing YouTube Channel! Check out the posting from this week and tune in for future episodes to get your climbing/training/performance questions answered!
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#training #climbing #trainingforclimbing #trainingcafe

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast with Coach Hörst! Episode 107 focuses on dialing in your game in the final days leading up to your projecting season. A primary focus of this podcast is how to prevent the pun, which we all know you need! Check it out wherever you get your podcasts, and leave a review!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbingpodcast

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on sloper nuances!
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👊 Sloper Stress: Key Insights for Climbers 👊

If you’ve been climbing for a while, you know that using slopers requires significantly more friction (indicated by the pink shading) compared to other types of holds. The greater the skin surface area in contact with the hold, the better you can apply downward force.

Slopers are designed with a downward slope and often lack sharp edges, which means your fingers are positioned at wider angles. This wider angle, viewed through the lens of the length-tension relationship (how muscle length affects its strength), is not ideal for generating force.

In this position, your wrist is more “passive” and stretched compared to when you’re gripping smaller, flatter holds. In contrast, when your wrist is in a flexed position (like in a half or full crimp), the length-tension relationship of your finger and wrist flexors improves, allowing for better force generation.

Due to the shape of slopers, climbers depend more on passive structures such as joint capsules, ligaments, and titin to maintain balance below the hands. Once skin contact is lost, the wrist flexes to create a plumb line (indicated by the green arrow) underneath. This flexed position places significant stress on the wrist’s ligaments.

Now, consider that the average strain on wrist ligaments increases when a climber is fatigued. As you tire, your muscles become less effective at protecting the joint, putting even more strain on the ligaments.

Actionable Takeaways:

1. Vary Your Holds: Regularly change the types of holds you use during practice.

2. No Added Weight: Focus on developing your skill with slopers without adding extra weight.

3. Strength Training: Incorporate exercises to improve forearm strength and recruitment.

4. Know When to Stop: End your climbing session when you notice a drop in coordination.

By following these guidelines, you can enhance your performance while minimizing the risk of injury.

#rockclimbing #climbingtraining #climbingperformance #climbstrong #climbingdoctor #usaclimbing #performanceclimbingcoach #ifsc #wristinjury #training4climbing #climbinglife

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