Compression Training for Climbers

Posted by Eric Hörst | Mar 1, 2020 | Train Body, Training Videos

Compression Training for Climbers

Develop stronger arms and shoulders for hard compression climbing moves!

Cameron Hörst shares his technique for training compression strength. He demonstrates both climbing-specific and generalized exercises for developing strength through the shoulders, arms, and upper torso.

Invest just 15 to 20 minutes into these exercises, two or three days per week, and you’ll soon be slapping and compressing up harder boulders and routes!

Follow Cameron Hörst on Instagram at Cameron_Horst11

Related Articles:

Advanced Hangboard Training Techniques for Developing Finger Strength
Rotator Cuff Training for Climbers. Watch the video now >>
Training and Nutritional Influence on Connective Tissue Strength and Injury Risk

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#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on sloper nuances!
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👊 Sloper Stress: Key Insights for Climbers 👊

If you’ve been climbing for a while, you know that using slopers requires significantly more friction (indicated by the pink shading) compared to other types of holds. The greater the skin surface area in contact with the hold, the better you can apply downward force.

Slopers are designed with a downward slope and often lack sharp edges, which means your fingers are positioned at wider angles. This wider angle, viewed through the lens of the length-tension relationship (how muscle length affects its strength), is not ideal for generating force.

In this position, your wrist is more “passive” and stretched compared to when you’re gripping smaller, flatter holds. In contrast, when your wrist is in a flexed position (like in a half or full crimp), the length-tension relationship of your finger and wrist flexors improves, allowing for better force generation.

Due to the shape of slopers, climbers depend more on passive structures such as joint capsules, ligaments, and titin to maintain balance below the hands. Once skin contact is lost, the wrist flexes to create a plumb line (indicated by the green arrow) underneath. This flexed position places significant stress on the wrist’s ligaments.

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Actionable Takeaways:

1. Vary Your Holds: Regularly change the types of holds you use during practice.

2. No Added Weight: Focus on developing your skill with slopers without adding extra weight.

3. Strength Training: Incorporate exercises to improve forearm strength and recruitment.

4. Know When to Stop: End your climbing session when you notice a drop in coordination.

By following these guidelines, you can enhance your performance while minimizing the risk of injury.

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