Coach Hörst talks about the pros & cons of in-season hangboard finger training — how much (and how intense) can you go without hurting outdoor climbing performance? Plus, Eric will answer some viewer questions. Arrive early…bring coffee! EPISODE time-stamps below — Scroll down!
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RUNDOWN
0:35 – Sip coffee with coach Hörst – climbers around the world unite.
2:05 – Eric’s SHOUT OUT to Stefano Ghisophi on sending Bibliography. Eric sounds in on the downgrade to 5.15c/9b+
4:50 – A look at the Hörst home gym…and Cameron Hörst training for his trip to Germany.
7:00 – Eric explains about his “111” shirt…a tribute to a fallen soldier (and fellow climber).
8:30 – MAIN TOPIC: In-season Hangboard training — Should you do significant hangboarding during your outdoor performance climbing season?
****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
17:50 – Getting into climbing at age 33, how long can I improve at bouldering…before transitioning to route climbing?
22:25 – As a route-setter, working a long day setting–and testing–boulders between V0 and V9…what kind of a training day is this, and how do I train and climb on other days to perform my best?
26:54 – Can I do onsight climbing outdoors during a strength/power phase of my training cycle?
36:18 – I climb outside every Sunday, so how shall I organize bouldering and hangboard training?
40:50 – Which finger training protocols develop neurological versus structure adaptations?
44:55 – Does the nervous system get affected by weight lifting? How long must I rest between lifting and climbing?
46:50 – How much difference between the 2nd and 3rd editions of your Training For Climbing book?
48:45 – Getting into climbing later in age, how do I balance short-term gains with development for the long game?
53:25 – Tips for rehabbing and returning from an ankle sprain?
THANK YOU: La Sportiva shoes, Maxim Ropes, DMM, Organic, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage!
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10.
