Eric talks about a healthy commitment to climbing and training, performance nutrition, injury, and lots of training questions answered!
Watch Episode #16 — Healthy Commitment for Climbing Your Best
Rundown:
00:15 – Commune together…with coffee!
00:50 – Importance of FOCUS in climbing.
1:50 – Importance of a SYSTEM for improvement.
2:45 – Don’t become your own worst enemy.
5:20 – Pursuing your genetic potential.
7:10 – “Talent beats hard work when talent doesn’t work hard”.
8:45 – Self-discipline is the “great equalizer”.
11:00 – Three levels of commitment:
11:10 – LOW commitment…makes you but a “dreamer”.
12:12 – HEALTHY commitment…puts you in the sweet spot for long term gains and being a climber for life.
14:10 – OBSESSION…overcommitting to climbing at the expense of everything else in your life. Avoid this!
17:25 – TC SHOUT OUT to…Melissa Le Neve on sending Action Directe (5/14d/9a) — the first female ascent!
19:50 – Can I hangboard and climb on the same day?
25:20 – For max hangs…is it better to use a larger hold with more weight or a smaller hold with less weight?
29:10 – Cafe Kraft use of energy system training?
30:55 – Advice for resting on a route during a redpoint attempt? “Stronger climbers can rest on smaller holds.”
34:30 – Why should we train Energy Systems separately?
37:40 – Best way to train max pull-ups? I recommend the “5 x 5” protocol as shown in this video.
39:45 – How to best train the climbing-specific aerobic energy system? ARC versus “Threshold” training?
46:54 – What Treadwall model do I use?
47:15 – How to best get back into climbing/training after a period away for it
48:18 – What do I think about using Blood Flow Restriction (BFR) training as part of a climbing program?
49:25 – Closing comments.
Watch Episode #15 – Training Café #15 – Performance Nutrition: A Real Difference-Maker for Advancing Climbers
Rundown:
00:15 – Commune together…with coffee!
1:00 – Brief COVID-19 comments.
3:30 – Staying strong at home….but beware that an endless training cycle will go stale after a couple months! Transition back into climbing as soon as yo can to regain movement skills and efficiency.
7:30 – Should I do remote Training Cafe this summer?
8:00 – “Arm Aid” forearm roller — excellent self-maintenance tool!
9:40 – How weight and resistance should be changed through a 4-3-2-1 training cycle?
13:50 – Strength is no substitute for technique!
17:25 – Question about collagen supplements for climbers–how are collagen supplements different from one another? Visit here for more information.
20:35 – Is soy protein bad for you? Being deficient in protein is bad for you!
23:15 – Nutrition concerns for vegan climbers.
25:35 – What’s the minimum daily requirement for a climber training hard?
26:30 – Spanish version of Training for Climbing book.
27:05 – Do I do personal online coaching? Some coaching recommendations! 30:45 – What do I think about one-arm hangboard hangs?
31:55 About POWERPLEX plant-based protein and collagen alternative for vegan athletes.
35:30 – Should I work or climb this summer?
36:00 – Tips fo starting a first-ever hangboard training cycle. Is it normal for my joints to hurt?
44:25 – See a doctor if you have an acute injury or a chronic injury that’s not getting better…or getting worse.
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