Ever wonder how often you should be training for climbing? In this week’s Training Café episode, Eric Horst discusses proper training frequency and answers all of your questions! Grab your coffee and get ready to discuss some important topics!
RUNDOWN:
00:20 – Time to talk training, climbing, and sip coffee together!
1:30 – SHOUTOUT to Matt Fultz for his killer 24-hour spell in Red Rocks
2:50– Today’s topic: How many days a week should you be training?
3:37 – The more you do it the better you get; you’ve got to put the time in!
5:40 – How many days to engage in intense physical training (including intense climbing days)
6:55 – Avoid over-training (can result in injury, degraded performance, poor results)
7:50 – Engage in minimum effective dose
8:30 – Minimum effective dose varies depending on the climber
9:15– Variables affecting training schedule
10:30 – Don’t overlook your recovery period! (nutrition and sleep habits)
14:30 – Meaning of training (climbing vs. non-climbing)
15:10 – 3-4 days a week is a good starting point
15:45 – Do something physical every day!
16:00 – Pushing / “prehab” exercises (do on non-climbing days!)
17:00 – Targeted training to break plateaus
19:30 – 3/4 days a week total of climbing-specific training for the “average climber”
21:50 – one COMPLETE rest day per week
24:45 – Expose yourself to new types of climbing
26:30 – Hangboarding and campus boarding can be game-changers!
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
27:00 – Ganglian cyst treatment
32:00 – Opinion on fingerboard pull-ups
36:35 – Have you done any climbing in Georgia, Alabama, or Tennessee?
37:15 – Any tips for sharp elbow pain when releasing difficult holds with a bent arm? I’ve been climbing for about 7 years and have had this pain for about 1.5 years.
40:10– Can your recovery maintenance hangboard protocol with collagen be implemented with a max hangs protocol or is it too much?
45:55 – Am I training aerobic capacity doing moves on a 40-degree wall with my feet on the ground? When should I do this?
47:40 – Do you resole your climbing shoes or buy new?
49:12 – I plateaued doing max hangs for 2 months. How should I overcome this?
54:03 – What are some conducted studies that have been done on youth climbers and what have they shown?
55:55 – Here are a few articles on appropriate training for youth climbers >>
56:10 – Energy systems interference with aerobic vs. anaerobic core exercises
58:13 – I have a fingerboard, a bar, and some workout equipment, but no access to a climbing wall during the week. Can you help me with some exercises?
59:55 – For new climbers, is one of the best ways to train just to climb?
1:01:50 – What about yoga?
1:03:50 – Do you practice mindfulness?
1:05:40 – I have arthritis in my big toes. Any techniques to limber up the big toe mid-joint?
1:06:53 – How long does a Lumbrical muscle injury last? Any suggested treatments?
1:09:20 – Does fingerboarding with heavy weight cause impingement? Should training rungs be wider?
1:12:05 – What exercises would you recommend for a sub-scapular shoulder injury?
1:13:30 – See you all next time! (Get ahead of the game and type in your questions ahead of time to send them to the top of the list)
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