Training Café #55 – Dealing with an “Off” Day at the Climbing Gym

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jan 25, 2022 | Training Cafe Vodcast

Training Café #55 – Dealing with an “Off” Day at the Climbing Gym

Coach Hörst talks about his recent “off” day at the climbing gym. What’s the best way to react (and adjust your training plan) to such an off day?

EPISODE time-stamps below — Scroll down!

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RUNDOWN

0:30 – Sip coffee with coach Hörst – climbers around the world unite!

2:30 – SHOUT OUT: Julia Chounardie

4:00 – Eric’s thoughts on climbing going “mainstream”.

6:30 – MAIN TOPIC: How to respond to an “off day” at the climbing gym. You have 3 choices…

7:50 – Use of auto-regulation to make the workout appropriate for your current state.

****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
20:00 – How to organize strength training for a V6 boulderer?

23:00 – How long should a training cycle last?

26:00 – How to best train for long steep routes?

32:35 – Can I train multiple grip positions in a single workout?

39:55 – Any words of wisdom for me after tearing my biceps tendon?

44:10 – I’m three weeks out from a trip to Spain…how should I train leading into the trip?

47:50 – What do you think of my unique pull-up routine?

52:25 – What do you think of deadlift style finger training?

54:40 – How can I prepare my youth climbers for competition skills?

THANK YOU: La Sportiva shoes, Maxim Ropes, DMM, Organic, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage!

SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10.

FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers

Copyright © 2000–2022 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved | Hörst Training LLC

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Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
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Are you at the point in your climbing where you ar

Are you at the point in your climbing where you are ready to begin hangboarding, or want a new protocol to check out? If you’ve been climbing long enough and feel ready to begin a higher end workout you are in the right place. A detailed one arm, and 2 arm protocol is outlined on the Training for Climbing website. So check out the article and the associated videos in the Advanced Hangboarding link in bio!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbing #hangboarding #physivantage

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast d

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#trainingforclimbingpodcast #climb #climbing #training

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👉Watch video at the link in our bio!

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Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs climbing days. Whether that means more goes on a project, more threshold for an individual route, or simply more pitches in a day. The question is how do you know to focus on this style of climbing while training or while climbing outside? It is critical to understand the difference between the aerobic and anaerobic energy system. Check out the link in bio for Anaerobic vs Aerobic training!
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Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast

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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbingpodcast

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on sloper nuances!
・・・
👊 Sloper Stress: Key Insights for Climbers 👊

If you’ve been climbing for a while, you know that using slopers requires significantly more friction (indicated by the pink shading) compared to other types of holds. The greater the skin surface area in contact with the hold, the better you can apply downward force.

Slopers are designed with a downward slope and often lack sharp edges, which means your fingers are positioned at wider angles. This wider angle, viewed through the lens of the length-tension relationship (how muscle length affects its strength), is not ideal for generating force.

In this position, your wrist is more “passive” and stretched compared to when you’re gripping smaller, flatter holds. In contrast, when your wrist is in a flexed position (like in a half or full crimp), the length-tension relationship of your finger and wrist flexors improves, allowing for better force generation.

Due to the shape of slopers, climbers depend more on passive structures such as joint capsules, ligaments, and titin to maintain balance below the hands. Once skin contact is lost, the wrist flexes to create a plumb line (indicated by the green arrow) underneath. This flexed position places significant stress on the wrist’s ligaments.

Now, consider that the average strain on wrist ligaments increases when a climber is fatigued. As you tire, your muscles become less effective at protecting the joint, putting even more strain on the ligaments.

Actionable Takeaways:

1. Vary Your Holds: Regularly change the types of holds you use during practice.

2. No Added Weight: Focus on developing your skill with slopers without adding extra weight.

3. Strength Training: Incorporate exercises to improve forearm strength and recruitment.

4. Know When to Stop: End your climbing session when you notice a drop in coordination.

By following these guidelines, you can enhance your performance while minimizing the risk of injury.

#rockclimbing #climbingtraining #climbingperformance #climbstrong #climbingdoctor #usaclimbing #performanceclimbingcoach #ifsc #wristinjury #training4climbing #climbinglife

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Fingers feeling stiff and sore, just in time for g

Fingers feeling stiff and sore, just in time for good send conditions to hit? Warm up right with these finger stretches and exercises to shake off the ache and climb your best! Check out the link in our bio for Finger warm ups!
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