Training Cafe #66 – Fall Climbing and Your Questions Answered

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Oct 4, 2022 | Training Cafe Vodcast

Training Cafe #66 – Fall Climbing and Your Questions Answered

In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Eric Hörst talks setting yourself up to win during the fall performance season, recovery tips after a hard training week, density hangs, eccentric overload training, strength maintenance during long climbing trips, climbing with newborns, and more!

EPISODE time-stamps below — Scroll down!

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RUNDOWN

0:10 – Introductory comments from home and discussion on autumn climbing conditions

1:00 – Switching from training focus to performance focus and setting yourself up to win

5:25 – SIP COFFEE together — climbers around the world unite!

6:00 – Recovery tips

9:45 – YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED

9:55 – Details on density hangs in preparation for campus training

17:50 – Positive and negatives of eccentric overload training

21:45 – How to maintain energy systems while living on the road

25:10 – Maintenance exercises during long climbing trips

28:05 – Climbing after pregnancy/with kids

31:05 – Optimal number of different grips in a hangboard session

36:40 – Rehab training session planning tips

42:00 – Training tips for climbers breaking into 5.12

46:20 – Final comments….HAPPY CLIMBING!

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Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
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#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on sloper nuances!
・・・
👊 Sloper Stress: Key Insights for Climbers 👊

If you’ve been climbing for a while, you know that using slopers requires significantly more friction (indicated by the pink shading) compared to other types of holds. The greater the skin surface area in contact with the hold, the better you can apply downward force.

Slopers are designed with a downward slope and often lack sharp edges, which means your fingers are positioned at wider angles. This wider angle, viewed through the lens of the length-tension relationship (how muscle length affects its strength), is not ideal for generating force.

In this position, your wrist is more “passive” and stretched compared to when you’re gripping smaller, flatter holds. In contrast, when your wrist is in a flexed position (like in a half or full crimp), the length-tension relationship of your finger and wrist flexors improves, allowing for better force generation.

Due to the shape of slopers, climbers depend more on passive structures such as joint capsules, ligaments, and titin to maintain balance below the hands. Once skin contact is lost, the wrist flexes to create a plumb line (indicated by the green arrow) underneath. This flexed position places significant stress on the wrist’s ligaments.

Now, consider that the average strain on wrist ligaments increases when a climber is fatigued. As you tire, your muscles become less effective at protecting the joint, putting even more strain on the ligaments.

Actionable Takeaways:

1. Vary Your Holds: Regularly change the types of holds you use during practice.

2. No Added Weight: Focus on developing your skill with slopers without adding extra weight.

3. Strength Training: Incorporate exercises to improve forearm strength and recruitment.

4. Know When to Stop: End your climbing session when you notice a drop in coordination.

By following these guidelines, you can enhance your performance while minimizing the risk of injury.

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