In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Hörst explains four keys to focusing your training to climb your best in the upcoming “send season” (a.k.a. Autumn in the Northern Hemisphere!). He also answers viewer questions on grip strength training and training on limited time frames.
EPISODE time-stamps below — Scroll down!
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RUNDOWN
1:00 – Recap on Eric’s summer season so far!
1:00 – Why the autumn “send” season is important for rock climbers
3:00 – SIP COFFEE together — Climbers around the world unite! 3:30 – Shoutout to World Cup Climbers and PhysiVantage athletes Alex Megos (bronze in the Men’s Lead), Natalia Grossman (5th place in Women’s Bouldering), Brooke Raboutou (bronze in Women’s Bouldering), Yannick Flohé, Annie Sanders (8th place in Women’s Combined)
5:15 – Endure-X rebranded to Sendure-X, now NSF certified!
6:50 – Preparing for the Autumn “send season”
7:00 – Heal any injuries or limiting conditions FIRST so you can start your season healthy; pay attention to warning signs on early pain signals to get on top of anything brewing
8:40 – Order of operations for supplemental collagen and protein use in training
9:30 – Consider your big goal for the fall season to figure out your training emphasis
10:45 – Dial back on supplemental training like heavy weightlifting that could hold you back from climbing your best
12:30 – Ramp up your volume of climbing to prepare for long crag days
14:50 – Consider any small changes to nutrition or body composition that could support climbing at your limit
19:30 – Viewer questions answered!
19:40 – Exercises for grip strength
22:20 – Training on limited time (like with a newborn!)
26:50 – Base programming for maintaining fitness
28:00 – Closing comments, and return to regular Training Cafe schedule every 2-3 weeks
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