Training questions on finger injury, hangboard training, collagen use, density hangs, “deload” weeks, contact strength, max hangs, and more!

For the duration of the COVID-19 “shutdown”, Eric will host livestreaming episodes of Training Café most Monday’s and Thursday’s at 12:00pm ET (1600GMT). Tune in for the live episodes or watch on-demand on the TrainingForClimbing YouTube channel. Please visit and subscribe!

Watch Episode #12 — Training Questions Answered…lots of them!


00:15 – Commune together…with coffee! 2:00 – Still in COVID lockdown training mode. 4:06 – Today’s SHOUT OUT to Cameron for launching his YouTube Training Channel:… 6:20 – YOUR Questions Answered! 4:30 – Q1: Tips for training wide arm strength? 9:30 – Q2: How to best make 7-second “max hangs” hangboard progressive? 11:35 – Q3: What do I think about doing campus boarding more than twice per week? 15:50 – Q4: Tips for balance workout frequency & intensity to provide enough recovery time? 19:35 – Q5: How to best execute the “5 x 5” weighted pull-up protocol? 22:02 – Q6: Can I train with some slight elbow pain? 24:05 – Q7: How to schedule training when you have year-round outdoor climbing available? 28:10 – Q8: How to train all techniques when the indoor gym only has overhanging walls? 30:55 – Q9: Tips for dealing with minor growth plate finger pain? 33:30 – Q10: What are my thoughts on constant pain in the fingers of one hand? 36:00 – Q11: What do I think about feet-off campus training to develop contact strength? 38:12 – Q12: What do you think about “cracky” elbows and knees? 40:10 – Q13: What finger grip position is best for hangboard training? 41:40 – Q14: What do I think about “density hangs”…and the best way and time to train with them?


Watch Episode #11 – Employing a “Systems Approach” to Training…and Training Questions Answered!


00:13 – Let’s commune together with coffee! 00:30 – About Eric’s “make April great again” initiative. 1:50 – Introduction to employing a Systems Approach to training for peak performance. 2:!5 – Ultimate successful climbers (and other peak performers) have developed a “System” that they have developed and employ with discipline. 3:15 – The best climbers have an effective system–their success isn’t an accident or luck. 6:30 – YOU should work on your system for live–don’t live by accident or happenstance! 8:30 – Work on your self-awareness of actions and results…day to day and hour by hour. Exude a bias for action! 9:40 – Learn to deal with disturbances to the system.

10:20 – You can re-engineer your System today…to set you on a new course. Today, is a Brand New Day!… 11:00 – Is your current System effective? 12:15 – About my book Maximum Climber–a powerful book on the many cognitive aspects of climbing. Read it!… 13:30 – Have a plan for each day–plan the plan, then work the plan! 14:00 – Don’t be dominated by “urgency” and unimportant things. Eliminate time-wasting activities–your future depends on it!

16:20 – YOUR QUESTIONS: 16:25 – What are common causes of finger pain besides a pulley injury? 19:40 – What training is okay for a “deload” week? 24:45 – Question about Supercharged Collagen use for supporting tendon, ligament, and joint health.… 30:10 – What is a good warm-up for before “max hangs” training? 34:00 – How large a serving of collagen is ideal?

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