Video: Shauna Coxsey Trains with Alex Megos at Cafe Kraft

Posted by Eric Hörst | Dec 1, 2015 | Gimme Kraft!, Training Articles

Video: Shauna Coxsey Trains with Alex Megos at Cafe Kraft

Shauna Coxsey is an English boulderer who, in the past two years, has climbed V14 and stood on the podium at international competitions. Despite her phenomenal success, Shauna has a huge interest in improving her climbing strength and skills. So who better to train with than Gimme Kraft’s Dicki Korb and Alex Megos? In this inspiring video, you’ll see Alex and Shauna dance, pull, and power through a series of sick boulders at Cafe Kraft. There’s are also a few short interview clips with Cafe Kraft’s captain, Hannas Huch; and if you’ve got a lust for power, then just skip ahead to 7:00 and enjoy the Megos and Coxsey show!

https://vimeo.com/147036481a

Learn more about the best-selling book Gimme Kraft!
US and Canadian customers can buy GIMME KRAFT! only from TrainingForClimbing.com, the exclusive North American distributor. Climbers from elsewhere should order from the Café Kraft web site.

Copyright © 2000–2015 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.

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Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
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Are you at the point in your climbing where you ar

Are you at the point in your climbing where you are ready to begin hangboarding, or want a new protocol to check out? If you’ve been climbing long enough and feel ready to begin a higher end workout you are in the right place. A detailed one arm, and 2 arm protocol is outlined on the Training for Climbing website. So check out the article and the associated videos in the Advanced Hangboarding link in bio!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbing #hangboarding #physivantage

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast d

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast dropped today! In this episode Coach Hörst talks about 13 actionable tactics and strategies that play a huge role in your climbing performance. Ranging from personal control of your body, to timing and mentality. Check out the link in bio to access the podcast or listen wherever you find your episodes.
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#trainingforclimbingpodcast #climb #climbing #training

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my r

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👉Watch video at the link in our bio!

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Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs

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#climb #climbing #trainingforclimbing #training

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certa

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#training #climbing #trainingforclimbing #trainingcafe

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast

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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbingpodcast

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on sloper nuances!
・・・
👊 Sloper Stress: Key Insights for Climbers 👊

If you’ve been climbing for a while, you know that using slopers requires significantly more friction (indicated by the pink shading) compared to other types of holds. The greater the skin surface area in contact with the hold, the better you can apply downward force.

Slopers are designed with a downward slope and often lack sharp edges, which means your fingers are positioned at wider angles. This wider angle, viewed through the lens of the length-tension relationship (how muscle length affects its strength), is not ideal for generating force.

In this position, your wrist is more “passive” and stretched compared to when you’re gripping smaller, flatter holds. In contrast, when your wrist is in a flexed position (like in a half or full crimp), the length-tension relationship of your finger and wrist flexors improves, allowing for better force generation.

Due to the shape of slopers, climbers depend more on passive structures such as joint capsules, ligaments, and titin to maintain balance below the hands. Once skin contact is lost, the wrist flexes to create a plumb line (indicated by the green arrow) underneath. This flexed position places significant stress on the wrist’s ligaments.

Now, consider that the average strain on wrist ligaments increases when a climber is fatigued. As you tire, your muscles become less effective at protecting the joint, putting even more strain on the ligaments.

Actionable Takeaways:

1. Vary Your Holds: Regularly change the types of holds you use during practice.

2. No Added Weight: Focus on developing your skill with slopers without adding extra weight.

3. Strength Training: Incorporate exercises to improve forearm strength and recruitment.

4. Know When to Stop: End your climbing session when you notice a drop in coordination.

By following these guidelines, you can enhance your performance while minimizing the risk of injury.

#rockclimbing #climbingtraining #climbingperformance #climbstrong #climbingdoctor #usaclimbing #performanceclimbingcoach #ifsc #wristinjury #training4climbing #climbinglife

If you missed it, check out episode 102 of the Tra

If you missed it, check out episode 102 of the Training For Climbing podcast. This episode, released a few months ago is the fourth iteration of the road to 5.13 for @thestruggleclimbingshow . Ryan has been inching closer to his goal of 13a and hopefully this fall it goes down! Give this episode a listen for some coaching that you can apply to your own projects this season! Click the link in bio to find it, or listen wherever you get podcasts!
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#climb #training #trainingforclimbing #fallclimbing #climbing

Fingers feeling stiff and sore, just in time for g

Fingers feeling stiff and sore, just in time for good send conditions to hit? Warm up right with these finger stretches and exercises to shake off the ache and climb your best! Check out the link in our bio for Finger warm ups!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #fingerstrength #climbing

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