Browse: Home / “5 x 5” Weighted Pull-up Training for Increased Strength, Power, and Endurance

Menu

Skip to content
Header image

Training For Climbing – by Eric HörstLogo

Train Smarter, Climb Harder!

Menu

Skip to content
  • Privacy Policy
  • About
    • Welcome to the New T4C!
    • About T4C
    • Eric’s Biography
    • Eric’s Publishing Resume
    • Eric’s Books (1994 – present)
    • Meet the Hörst Family!
    • Testimonials
    • Terms of Use
    • Contact Eric
  • Knowledge Base
  • Multimedia
  • Buy Books
    • Training for Climbing (3rd edition)
    • The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide
    • Maximum Climbing
    • One Move Too Many
    • How To Climb 5.12
    • Learning to Climb Indoors
    • Rock Climbing: VA/MD/WV
  • Training Tools
    • Lattice “Triple” Hangboard
    • Lattice “Mini Bar”
    • Lattice “Pinch & Crimp” Block
    • Lattice Training – Lifting Pin (aka “Loading Pin”)
    • Lattice Training “Micro Holds”
    • Endless Rope Trainer
  • Research
  • Coaching
  • Links

“5 x 5” Weighted Pull-up Training for Increased Strength, Power, and Endurance

Posted by Eric Hörst on February 1, 2019 in Train Body, Training Articles | 86,385 Views | Leave a response
2.6K Shares
  • Facebook 2.5K
  • Twitter 0
  • LinkedIn 1
  • Email 5
hypergravity-pull-up
French rock star Melissa Le Neve doing weighted pull-ups. Photo courtesy of Claudia Ziegler, from her book “The Young Savages.”

Would you like to increase your pull-muscle and lock-off strength, lunging power, and pulling endurance by 20% or more? Of course, you would!

Here’s how. Commit to weighted pull-up training, three times per week, for the next ten weeks. Sound simple? Yes it is, but you need to make a commitment and follow through completely to obtain the results.

(Caveat: If you’re really strong already—can you do a one-arm pull-up?—then this article isn’t for you! You can segue into one-arm training using this program. )

First, let’s establish a benchmark for your current pull-up endurance and strength—this will provide you with a value for comparison when you re-take the test in 10 weeks. Here are the two tests:

  • Endurance Metric—the number of “true” pull-ups you can do in one set.  A “true” pull-up is going all the way down to straight arms and pulling up until your chin is fully above the bar (arms in lock-off position)—partial pull-ups don’t count. Take this test after a complete warm-up, and use a pull-up bar or the bucket holds of a fingerboard to perform the pull-ups. Record in a training notebook your test results. Now, calculate where you’d be with a 20 percent increase in the number of pull-ups—this is your 10-week goal.
  • Strength Metric—the maximum added weight with which you can do a single true pull-up. This test takes some extra equipment, either a few weight belts and a vest (with removable weights) or better yet a Dips Belt or harness from which you can hang weight lifting plates (see photo). After a warm-up, begin testing yourself with a series of one-rep pull-up sets, adding weight each time until you find the maximum weight you can perform a true pull-up with. Really strong climbers can begin testing with 25% of body weight added and go up in about 10-pound increments, while most others should begin with 10% of body weight added and increase by 5-pound increments. Upon finding your max weight, record the result, and calculate your 20% goal weight.

Your 10-Week Pull-Muscle Training Program

To achieve this goal you’re going to leverage a “hypergravity training” technique as detailed in my book, Training For Climbing.

In a nutshell, you’re going to simulate hypergravity (greater than gravity’s natural pull) by adding weight to your body while you perform five sets of pull-ups. Ever notice how light your feet feel upon taking off a pair of ski boots or a heavy backpack? We are going to create the same effect with your climbing muscles! The key is to do all of your pull-up training with weight added (weight vest, belt, or free weights hanging from your harness) to trigger your neuromuscular system to adapt to this apparent increase in gravity. Long-term, you’ll develop a new level of pull-up and lock-off strength—on the rock at normal body weight, you just might begin to feel like you are climbing on the moon!

The “5 x 5” Weighted Pull-up Protocol

On your normal training and/or climbing days, perform five sets of five weighted pull-ups, ideally during the middle part of your workout when the muscles are well-warmed but still relatively fresh. Each set will consist of just five pull-ups, followed by at least three minutes of rest. Initially, you’ll need to experiment a bit to find the right training weight—which is an amount that is difficult but only brings you to near-complete failure on the last (fifth) rep of the fourth and fifth sets. For many people, the right training weight will be around half of their one-rep max added weight, as identified in the Strength Metric test above. Increase your training weight as needed to stay with this protocol throughout the ten-week program. (TIP: Vary the distance between your hands slightly with each set, and do not “hang rest” in the middle of a pull-up set).

Upon the completion of this ten-week program, take two to four days off from serious training/climbing. Then do a good warm-up and repeat the Strength and Endurance tests. I’m confident that you’ll be pleasantly surprised with the results!

Are Weighted Pull-ups Appropriate for You?

As a final note, weighted pull-up training is not appropriate if you are unable to do at least 10 consecutive true pull-ups. Instead, commit to a similar three-day-per week, ten-week program of pull-ups at bodyweight. Your training goal for each session is to do five sets of 5 to 8 pull-ups. The secret to your success is to have a spotter aid you in doing 5 to 8 pull-ups in each of your five sets. Begin each set doing the pull-ups under your own power, but have the spotter grab hold at your hips and help lift to complete 5 to 8 reps per set. Within ten weeks, you should become able to do 10 pull-ups on your own (and you’ll feel way stronger on the rock!), at which time you can begin the weighted pull-up protocol detailed above.

Pro Tips on Nutrition

Over-enthusiastic training, too few rest days, and chronic protein deficiency are common contributing factors among frequently injured climbers. Conversely, seldom injured climbers engage in appropriate high-intensity training followed by sufficient rest and low-load training while consuming adequate protein to support net collagen synthesis and long-term remodeling. These climbers develop stronger muscles and tendons season over season, and they have a good chance to advance their climbing ability. Read more about how you can increase strength and lower your injury risk >>

Related Articles:

  • The Ultimate Guide to Hangboard Training. Learn five finger-training protocols that work!
  • Rotator Cuff Training for Climbers. Watch the video now >>
  • Advanced Training for Stronger Tendons and to Promote Injury Resistance. Read now >>

Copyright © 2000–2020 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.

2.6K Shares
  • Facebook 2.5K
  • Twitter 0
  • LinkedIn 1
  • Email 5
Posted in Train Body, Training Articles | Tagged Hypergravity training, Pull-up training, training for climbing, weighted pull-ups

Beat the Pump with Endure X!

Endure X Performance Drink by PhysiVantage

Increase your power endurance, stamina, and recovery between repeated efforts in training and climbing!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

PhysiVāntage Europe!

physivantage nutrition europe

Attention UK & EU climbers! You can now buy PhysiVāntage nutrition from the EPIC-TV shop!

Stronger Tendons. Fewer Injuries. Really!

supercharged collagen for climbers

Research-based connective tissue, joint, and muscle matrix support for climbers.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Lattice Testing & Training Rung

Lattice Testing & Training Rung

Shop Now >>

Vegan BCAA & Electrolyte Supplement

FLOW bcaa electrolyte physivantage

Support muscle function and performance through long workouts or days of climbing.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

#1 International Best Seller!

Eric Horst's Training for Climbing, 3rd edition, 2016.

Click the book cover to learn about this international best-seller!

Premium Protein for Muscle Strength/Power Gains & Faster Recovery

Weapons-Grade Whey Protein Complex by PhysiVantage

The first recovery protein designed for climbers! Feel the Weapons-Grade difference.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

PowerPlex Plant-Based Protein!

Powerplex Plant-Based Protein

The Most Advanced Plant-Based Protein and Collagen Alternative for Vegans!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Knowledge Base

  • Train Body
  • Train Technique & Skills
  • Train Mind
  • Train Strategy
  • The Hurt Locker (Injury)
  • Youth Training
  • Climbing Mastery
  • Nutrition & Recovery
  • Research
  • Gimme Kraft! Videos
  • Basic Training
  • Climbing 101
  • T4C Videos
  • T4C Podcasts

Connect with T4C on Facebook!

Supercharge Your Climbing!

https://trainingforclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Final-Climbers-ad-hook-2-v1.mp4

Privacy Policy

https://trainingforclimbing.com/privacy-policy/

Footer logo
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • RSS Feed
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

Follow T4C on . . .twitter_logo1facebook-sm

 
 

Popular

    Training Programs for Climbers (T4C free download!)

    274985 views / Posted July 10, 2019
  • fingerboard training

    4 Fingerboard Training Protocols That Work

    174199 views / Posted November 1, 2016

    Treating “Climber’s Elbow” – Rehab and Prehab Protocol

    159422 views / Posted May 14, 2021

    The Best Climbing Exercise You’re Not Doing: The Scapular Pull-up!

    144504 views / Posted September 2, 2020
 
 

©2021 Eric J. Hörst - All Rights Reserved | Hörst Training, LLC

Menu

Subscribe to Training For Climbing Newsletter


(Your email address will NOT be shared or sold, and you can unsubscribe at any time.)

2.6K Shares
  • 2.5K Facebook
  • 0 Twitter
  • 1 LinkedIn
  • 5 Email
  • More Networks
Share via
Facebook
Twitter
LinkedIn
Mix
Pinterest
Tumblr
Skype
Buffer
Pocket
VKontakte
Parler
Xing
Reddit
Flipboard
MySpace
Delicious
Amazon
Digg
Evernote
Blogger
LiveJournal
Baidu
MeWe
NewsVine
Yummly
Yahoo
WhatsApp
Viber
SMS
Telegram
Facebook Messenger
Like
Email
Print
Copy Link
Powered by Social Snap
Copy link
CopyCopied
Powered by Social Snap