Training Café #52 - Auto-Regulation: When To Train (or Climb) HARD and When Not To! - Training For Climbing

Coach Hörst discusses the value of Auto-Regulation in striving to train and climb more effectively. Eric also answers viewer questions on how to break through a “5.11+ plateau”, training while on a business trip, training to drop weight, tapering ahead of a weekend climbing outing, max hangboard training during an endurance phase, the value of bodyweight training exercises, and more!

Sip coffee with coach Hörst…and soak up the secrets to better climbing!

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RUNDOWN

0:45 – Sip coffee with coach Hörst – climbers around the world unite!
1:00 – Introducing PhysiVantage’s special holiday SEND BLEND coffee. Learn more: https://physivantage.com/products/send-blend-coffee
1:50 – SHOUT-OUT to Zach Galla on his recent string of V15/V16 ascents!
2:25 – Introduction to Main Topic: AUTO-REGULATION – When to Train (or Climb) HARD and When Not To!
4:00 – Use of Auto-Regulation with a gym climbing or training session.
16:24 – Applying Auto-Regulation at the boulders and crags…to invest your energy wisely and increase your chance of sending your project.

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

27:00 – How to best continue training while on a trip away from climbing (Florida)?
29:10 – Is it okay to do a strength training phase right before a period of performance?
32:40 – Are you a fan of the Moonboard?
34:10 – How can I best do a mini-taper before a weekend of climbing?
37:35 – In trying to progress from 5.11 to 5.12, can I begin doing some hangboard training in addition to climbing 3 days per week?
40:40 – How can I train around (and heal) an A1 pulley injury in my hand?
43:23 – How long can a period of performance climbing last before losing significant strength or fitness?
46:16 – Do you use a SmartWatch to collect data?
48:40 – My recent training has resulted in a 10lb weight gain…and I’m wondering if I must cut weight to climb my best?
52:02 – I’m 54 years old and climb 7a/+ (5.12a)…how can I improve my climbing level further?
54:40 – Follow-up on wrist extensor injury…
56:30 – I’m currently about 10kg/22lbs overweight and climb 7a/5.11+. How can I best lose some weight and improve towards my goal of climbing 8a/13b?
1:01:20 – What are your thoughts on body-weight training exercises?
1:03:40 – Can I do a little hangboard strength training during an Endurance training phase?