Training Café #32 - Why Core Training Is More Important Than You May Think

In this episode, Eric Hörst discusses effective core training for better performance. Sip your coffee and get all of your core strength questions answered!

RUNDOWN:

00:45 – SHOUTOUT to 8a.nu
3:00 – Congrats to to Alex Puccio and PhysiVantage athlete Drew Ruana on “boulderer of the year!”
4:05 – Today’s topic: CORE TRAINING
5:30 – Common misconceptions; There’s a lot more to core strength than just your abs (see more on complete core training HERE)
7:30 – Core strength endurance
8:00 – Breath work
9:50 – Your core is more than just your abs!
11:00 – Adjusting force vectors to make holds more positive; a stronger core CAN mean stronger fingers
13:30 – A stronger core lends itself to more endurance
15:00 – Underlying causes precipitating failure
18:00 – Non-climbing exercises (click here for one of Eric Horst’s favorite core exercises)

********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********

24:00 – Commentary on in-depth knowledge for climbing technique
27:07 – Can you please suggest how to prevent unwanted muscle on legs, shoulders, and pecs?

31:27 – Do you think I can manage to climb 7a/5.11d with only one climbing session per week and hangboard/conditioning sessions mixed in?
33:55 – Is it possible to continue to make strength gains with a combination of hangboarding and outdoor climbing?
37:08 – What aspects of training for climbing should women climbers focus on compared to men?
41:30 – Can you give us an example of a well-structured core session?
46:22 – I’m an advanced boulderer, climbing 8 years, doing my first winter block, and looking to make the next step in lockdown. How should I structure my week?
51:20 – I struggle with flexibility, especially upper body. Any specific stretches you would recommend? How often?
55:07 – Any chance for future T4C follow-along training videos?
56:53 – What do you think about static holds?
1:00:40 – How to recover and strengthen your finger after a knuckle injury?
1:00:22 – Any training tips or guidelines for climbers over 40 who want to continue to progress?

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