Author: Lucie Hanes

Finger Warm-Ups for Better Climbing (with Reduced Injured Risk)

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Oct 7, 2024 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Training Articles

Fingers feeling stiff and sore, just in time for good send conditions to hit? Warm up right with...

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Fueling for Sending with Amity Warme, Climbing Dietitian

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Aug 12, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights, Nutrition & Recovery

In climbing, you get out what you put in. That applies not only to what you do in the gym, but...

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How to Climb 5.13…Faster!

Posted by Lucie Hanes | May 20, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights

Almost any fit person can reach 5.13 given enough time, effort, and intention. But life...

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Differences Between Male and Female Athletes, Part Two: Psychological Differences That Empower Lady Crushers

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Apr 9, 2024 | Research

Just like the bodies of male and female athletes differ, so do their brains. Female athletes can...

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Differences Between Male and Female Athletes, Part One: Physiological Differences In Favor of Girl Power

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Apr 5, 2024 | Research

Men might possess more brute strength, but female athletes have their own unique set of...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certa

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certain Mondays Coach Hörst hosts a live training cafe on the train gìn for climbing YouTube Channel! Check out the posting from this week and tune in for future episodes to get your climbing/training/performance questions answered!
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#training #climbing #trainingforclimbing #trainingcafe

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast with Coach Hörst! Episode 107 focuses on dialing in your game in the final days leading up to your projecting season. A primary focus of this podcast is how to prevent the pun, which we all know you need! Check it out wherever you get your podcasts, and leave a review!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbingpodcast

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on sloper nuances!
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👊 Sloper Stress: Key Insights for Climbers 👊

If you’ve been climbing for a while, you know that using slopers requires significantly more friction (indicated by the pink shading) compared to other types of holds. The greater the skin surface area in contact with the hold, the better you can apply downward force.

Slopers are designed with a downward slope and often lack sharp edges, which means your fingers are positioned at wider angles. This wider angle, viewed through the lens of the length-tension relationship (how muscle length affects its strength), is not ideal for generating force.

In this position, your wrist is more “passive” and stretched compared to when you’re gripping smaller, flatter holds. In contrast, when your wrist is in a flexed position (like in a half or full crimp), the length-tension relationship of your finger and wrist flexors improves, allowing for better force generation.

Due to the shape of slopers, climbers depend more on passive structures such as joint capsules, ligaments, and titin to maintain balance below the hands. Once skin contact is lost, the wrist flexes to create a plumb line (indicated by the green arrow) underneath. This flexed position places significant stress on the wrist’s ligaments.

Now, consider that the average strain on wrist ligaments increases when a climber is fatigued. As you tire, your muscles become less effective at protecting the joint, putting even more strain on the ligaments.

Actionable Takeaways:

1. Vary Your Holds: Regularly change the types of holds you use during practice.

2. No Added Weight: Focus on developing your skill with slopers without adding extra weight.

3. Strength Training: Incorporate exercises to improve forearm strength and recruitment.

4. Know When to Stop: End your climbing session when you notice a drop in coordination.

By following these guidelines, you can enhance your performance while minimizing the risk of injury.

#rockclimbing #climbingtraining #climbingperformance #climbstrong #climbingdoctor #usaclimbing #performanceclimbingcoach #ifsc #wristinjury #training4climbing #climbinglife

If you missed it, check out episode 102 of the Tra

If you missed it, check out episode 102 of the Training For Climbing podcast. This episode, released a few months ago is the fourth iteration of the road to 5.13 for @thestruggleclimbingshow . Ryan has been inching closer to his goal of 13a and hopefully this fall it goes down! Give this episode a listen for some coaching that you can apply to your own projects this season! Click the link in bio to find it, or listen wherever you get podcasts!
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#climb #training #trainingforclimbing #fallclimbing #climbing

Fingers feeling stiff and sore, just in time for g

Fingers feeling stiff and sore, just in time for good send conditions to hit? Warm up right with these finger stretches and exercises to shake off the ache and climb your best! Check out the link in our bio for Finger warm ups!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #fingerstrength #climbing

Fall season is almost in full swing! That means it

Fall season is almost in full swing! That means it’s time to get into sending mode. For most people time is gold meaning it is important to maximize every second of your weekend or trip. Having your mental game dialed will jumpstart your progress so check out the link in bio for 7 Last Minute Keys to Climbing!
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#climb #climbing #trainingforclimbing #fallclimbing

Fall season is in swing, and that means it’s tim

Fall season is in swing, and that means it’s time for outdoor projecting to begin! Everyone wants to send their project especially with limited time so it is key to maximize every day outside. Maximizing quality goes and being efficient with your energy throughout a day is critical for consistent success and progress. For 6 tips on projecting check out the Projecting 101 link in bio!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #climbing #projecting #send #training

System board climbing is now a standard in almost

System board climbing is now a standard in almost every climbing gym there’s multiple ways to incorporate these boards such as the Kilter board into your session. Here @alexandermegos does some high end campusing working on big controlled pulls at wide range of motions. Good thing is you can customize this to fit your needs and train positions and movements to replicate your goals.

#Repost @alexandermegos.
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“almost there: CAMPUS” @ 50° on the Kilter Board Original.
A rather hard campus (around V13) and a sign that my finger is pretty good again 👌🏼💪🏼.
I’ve really been enjoying the progress lately and I’m looking forward to Paris.

@tenayaclimbing @patagonia_climb @petzl_official @yeti @frictionlabs @physivantage @fazabrushes #stylefirst #carrotsforpower

@auroraclimbing #kilterboard #climbing #bouldering

Do you want stronger contact strength? Almost ever

Do you want stronger contact strength? Almost everyone can benefit from increased contact strength — something that is difficult to train in general. Contact strength is the ability to quickest apply force under an explosive loading of the fingers. This means, when doing powerful climbing, greater contact strength will allow better execution of dynamic moves and holding that force. The most effective method of increasing contact strength is on the campus board. Most gyms nowadays have a campus board, but few climbers correctly utilize it, while also mitigating injury risk. Check out the link in bio for 5 Campus Board Exercises to level up your contact strength!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #climbing #training #fingerstrength

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