Video: Training for the Crux
Here’s a short video, featuring the powerful Alex Megos and climbing icon Jerry Moffatt, that…
Simple Formula for Extreme Success (In Anything!)
The beginning of a new year is a great time to think critically about where…
Conceptual Model for Maximum-Difficulty Sport Climbing
I’ve just returned from a month-long trip to Europe, one of the highlights of which…
Performance Analysis of Adam Ondra’s Breakthrough Ascent of the World’s First 5.15d/9c
Last month I published a performance analysis of Margo Hayes’ incredible ascent of Biographie (5.15a/9a+).…
What You Can Learn from Margo Hayes’ Send of Biography (5.15a)!
While I frequently warn enthusiastic climbers of the downsides (and injury risk) of copying the…
Podcast #14: Performance Tips for Weekend Warriors
If you’re a passionate climber who works full-time (or in school), then you likely train…
Effectiveness of “Dangling Arm” and “G-Tox” Recovery Techniques
Key Points and Practical Application: In this study, the “G-tox” active recovery method proved superior to…
Benefits of Active Recovery Between Climbs
Key Points & Practical Application: Compared with passive recovery, use of active recovery yielded faster…
Projecting Strategies – How to Suss and Send
“Nix any thoughts of redpointing the route—leave that for some future moment; whether it’s later in the…