Training Café #53 - Holiday Training & Dietary Tips...and Your Training Questions!

Coach Hörst shares some holiday training and dietary tips to keep your training on track while still enjoying all the holiday cheer with friends and family! Eric also answers viewer questions on…possible performance-enhancing drug use in climbing, wrist flexor training, keto diet, daily protective training, max hangboarding, two-a-day training sessions, and more!

EPISODE time-stamps below — Scroll down!

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RUNDOWN

1:00 – Sip coffee with coach Hörst – climbers around the world unite!
2:10 – SHOUT-OUT to Jakob Schubert on sending TWO 5.15s in a day!
3:30 – BIG Announcement for European viewers — PhysiVantage Nutrition is now available in Europe from EPIC-TV online store.
5:35 – MAIN TOPIC: Training and Nutrition Tips for the Holiday Season.

****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
12:40 – What do you think of having a bouldering focus in the winter as preparation for next season sport climbing?
18:20 – I’ve been doing low-load “protective training” during my break from serious training; should I continue with these prehab sessions when I begin back into a serious training block?
23:10 – What do you think about possible PED (performance-enhancing drug) use among climbers?
29:40 – Does wrist extensor strength limit finger strength?
31:35 – What do you think of a keto diet?
37:00 – How should I organized max hangboarding with other training, specifically with regard to doing split training sessions.
40:10 – What do you think about consuming easy to digest carbohydrate during training?
43:02 – What do you think of my schedule of blending winter skiing with some renewed training in the new year?
46:00 – Should I limit 7/53 max hang training to only the strength/power training phase?
48:00 – How would you structure limit bouldering as part of a two-hour system wall session?
51:40 – If I’m going to boulder and sport climb on back-to-back days, would it be better to boulder on the first or second day?

THANK YOU: La Sportiva shoes, Maxim Ropes, DMM, Organic, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage!

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