Training Café #5 & 6 – Energy System Training and More! - Training For Climbing

What could be better than training and climbing…with coffee?

For the duration of the COVID-19 “shutdown”, Eric will host livestreaming episodes of Training Café most Monday’s and Thursday’s at 12:00pm ET (1600GMT). Tune in for the live episodes or watch on-demand on the TrainingForClimbing YouTube channel. Please visit and subscribe!

Watch Episode #6 to learning about Energy System Training.

Rundown:

1:00 – Thanks for your feedback on the previous episodes….and sorry for the stuck comments on the lower third of the screen! 3:20 – Shout out to Udo Neumann–kudos on your new series of videos on movement analysis and improving climbing technique. Check them out here: https://vimeo.com/ondemand/ideas2impr… 5:35 – Question #1: Should I go the whole way down when doing pull-ups? 11:55 – Question #2: How much hangboard training is too much? 15:50 – Question #3: Is deadlifting good for climbing? 19:40 – Question #4: When training Alactic system with Max Hangs can I do other alactic exercises during the rests between hangs? 27:15 – MAIN TOPIC – Energy System Training — how to train more effectively and schedule your workouts for best results. 40:00 – Closing comments…including the health and performance benefits of dark chocolate!

For an in-depth study of Energy System, listen to T4C podcasts #21 to #28.

Watch Episode #5 for follow-up questions on hangboard training…and more.

Rundown:

4:00 – Overview of COVID-19 “lockdown” and our hope for the 2020 climbing season to resume soon! 5:15 – The importance of optimism in tough times, both on the rock and off. Embrace the challenge and adversity…and avoid “loserthink”. 9:35 – Comic relief: “How long will the quarantine last?” 10:25 – Viewer Questions! 11:20 – What size/shape rungs are best for use on a campus board? 15:20 – Does hot coffee diminish the value of vitamin C and hydrolyzed collagen added to coffee? 17:40 – What training can I do when I have a sore rotator cuff? 20:57 – When 4×4 bouldering for power endurance, how shall I make increase the difficulty as I get stronger–do hard problems or more volume? 26:12 – Is there a difference between 10″/5″ and 7″/3″ repeater protocols? 29:00 – I do some extended fasting (up to 42 hours)–when is it best to do this within the content of a climbing season and hard training? 32:25 – When returning from a finger injury, how do I know when it’s safe to begin training and climbing on it? 35:45 – The importance of striving to become a smarter, more self-aware, and savvy climber year over year!