Power to Spare: Julia Chanourdie Sends EAGLE-4 (5.15b)!

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Julia Chanourdie will represent France in the Tokyo Olympics in July 2021. But given the COVID-cancelled 2020 competition season, Julia redirected her energy onto outdoor sport climbing this past year. The results of her outdoor-climbing focus were spectacular!

In March, Julia became the fourth woman to climb 5.15 with her ascent of Super Crackinette (5.15a). Then on November 7th, Julia succeeded on the Adam Ondra route Eagle-4, thus becoming only the third female climber to send 5.15b.

I met Julia briefly at Tetto di Sarre (Italy) in 2018. I enjoyed watching her train power-endurance (with her father belaying) by doing laps on a few of the steep 8b/8c routes, just a day after competing at the World Cup event in nearby Chamonix. It was clear to me that afternoon that Julia was a rare talent with a joyful spirit about her…and big things were soon to come!

I’m sure you’ll gain this same sense of her talent and spirit in watching this excellent recreation video of her amazing 5.15b ascent!

Video Sponsor: Petzl.com
Video Production: www.guillaume-broust.com
Music: Harmonimage Media – “Far-West” and Zikali – “Girl” feat Antoine Sanchez

Yesterday, I sent Eagle-4, my first 9b…🤩
It all happened so fast ! I felt it coming though, because I’d put in a good run the day before. I was really motivated, even though I couldn’t quite envision sending my first 9b. Late in the evening, I had to psych myself up before my 4th run. But after the first move, everything started to flow. The temperature had dropped, I felt cooler than my earlier runs. I just climbed, move after move and hung onto each of them for the send! The past days, the national restrictions had me nervous. I was worried professional athlete access to the crags would be cut off. It would have postponed the sent. That thought was in the back of my mind and it helped propel me forward on the route. Huge thanks to all of you. Stay tuned I’ll post more soon 😊