Tag: training for climbing

The Truth About Creatine for Climbers

Posted by Eric Hörst | Mar 9, 2025 | Nutrition & Recovery, Training Articles

Limit Bouldering for Building Max Climbing Strengt...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Feb 17, 2025 | Train Body, Train Strategy

5 Reasons Why Stronger Fingers Equal Better Climbi...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Dec 2, 2024 | Train Body, Training Articles

Finger Warm-Ups for Better Climbing (with Reduced ...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Oct 7, 2024 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Training Articles

Projecting 101 – 6 Tips to Sending Your Proj...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jul 10, 2024 | Train Strategy, Training Articles

How to Climb 5.13…Faster!

Posted by Lucie Hanes | May 20, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights

“5 x 5” Weighted Pull-up Training for Increased Strength, Power, and Endurance

by Eric Hörst | Mar 27, 2023 | Train Body, Training Articles

Would you like to increase your pull-muscle and lock-off strength, lunging power, and pulling...

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3 Tips for Off-The-Wall Cross-Training

by Lucie Hanes | Mar 24, 2023 | Train Body

Can’t make it to the gym? Bad weather at the crag? Sidelined with an injury? Try these tips...

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4 Steps to Improve Your Quality of Movement and Climb Harder!

by Lucie Hanes | Mar 17, 2023 | Train Technique & Skills

Clean up your act! Improve your quality of movement for better efficiency, fluidity, precision,...

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Training the Wrist Stabilizers

by Eric Hörst | Dec 16, 2022 | Train Body, Training Articles

Finger strength might be a climber’s bread and butter, but the wrists aren’t far off....

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How Elite Boulderer Andi Stull Translates Her Training to Sport Climbing

by Lucie Hanes | Oct 28, 2022 | Athlete Spotlights

Andi Stull only started climbing about six years ago, but in that short span of time she’s soared...

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Pursue Climbing Mastery By Diversifying Your Climbing Skill Set

by Lucie Hanes | Sep 30, 2022 | Train Technique & Skills

A master climber is a well-rounded climber. Pursuing climbing mastery, then, demands that you...

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Excitation Strategies for Amped and Energized Climbing

by Lucie Hanes | Sep 15, 2022 | Train Mind

If you find yourself feeling slow, heavy, or unmotivated to give your climb the power it needs,...

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How Jonathan Siegrist Trains to Crush 5.15 Climbs!

by Lucie Hanes | Sep 9, 2022 | Athlete Spotlights

Learn how America’s top sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist, trains in his pursuit of 5.15+!...

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“Boulder Campusing” Power Endurance Training for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Jul 14, 2021 | Train Body, Training Articles, Training Videos

Power training isn’t limited to a campus board. (This article was originally published in...

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Podcast #42: An “Intelligent System” Approach to Training and Goal Pursuit

by Eric Hörst | Dec 14, 2019 | Climbing Mastery, Podcasts, Train Body

Effective training can’t be haphazard, nor done ad-lib. In this podcast, you’ll learn...

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Research Supports Collagen for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Jun 10, 2019 | Nutrition & Recovery, The Hurt Locker (Injury)

How can collagen help climbers? Let’s first consider that it’s a rare climber that has never...

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Podcast #31: Hangboard Training Guidelines, Pro Tips, and Research

by Eric Hörst | Dec 7, 2018 | Podcasts, Research, Train Body

This episode provides critical framework and guidelines for effective hangboard finger training....

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

🚨New Podcast Alert 🚨 . Episode 115 of the Tr

🚨New Podcast Alert 🚨
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Episode 115 of the Training for Climbing podcast is available today. This podcast features @thestruggleclimbingshow host Ryan Devlin and discusses his breakthrough of 13a, and the process of progressing beyond, including grad pyramids, planning and projecting! Find a link in the bio, or wherever you listen to podcasts.
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training

#Repost @yannick_flohe . All climbers see crazy st

#Repost @yannick_flohe . All climbers see crazy strength displays like this and wonder how to take a step towards getting there themselves. Surely it will take time (or a lifetime) to do this, but you’ll have to start on the hangboard. Everyone wants stronger fingers but few understands just how to do it right. Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing strength and endurance from the article found in the link in bio!

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My fat ass learning how to hang the @beastmakers 6mm edges 🫨 New Year’s resolution: strong fingers 🤞
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#training#lifting#fitness#beastmaker#fingerboard#motivation#climbing#bouldering#trainingforclimbing

As many aspire to maximize their potential, squeez

As many aspire to maximize their potential, squeeze out every juice of performance, you may wonder what makes the pros so capable at doing this same thing. As you may expect, there are a handful of characteristics and tactics that make the pros, the pros… and you can adopt some yourself. Click the link in bio to hear about tapping into your potential and being like the best in a past but still pertinent episode of the training for climbing podcast!
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#climbing #training #trainingforclimbing

#Repost @thestruggleclimbingshow . Everyone has h

#Repost @thestruggleclimbingshow
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Everyone has heard about building their pyramid, but what does that actually look like on an person to person basis, and how do you balance this with projecting?
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In the recent Road to the Pyramid chat with Coach @eric_horst, I was reminded of the importance of aerobic training even in the “off season”... the lack of which I’ve definitely been feeling as I try longer routes this spring. For more of Eric’s sound wisdom and specific training protocols for route-climbing season, check out the full episode on Spotify, Apple, YouTube, or wherever your pod. Bonus stuff over on Patreon!

Have you checked in with yourself lately about you

Have you checked in with yourself lately about your goals in training and climbing? What about in your life beyond climbing? What’s your destination? How will you get there?
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These questions get answered by Coach Hörst in a quick article and video. Learn about the process of success and how you can fit this formula into your goal! Click the link in Bio to read about it.
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#climbing #training #trainingforclimbing

This is a problem everyone encounters. These tacti

This is a problem everyone encounters. These tactics can only be learned through trial and may be extremely impactful towards your performance. Although the weather is getting warmer out, it is never too late to stay on top of your high end performance strategies. Check it out more in depth in the link in bio.
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#trainingforclimbing #climbing #training

Training Inspo with @alexandermegos 💪🏼 30

Training Inspo with @alexandermegos 💪🏼

30 one arm pull ups:
• 1 rep with +15kg
• 2 reps with +9kg
• 3 reps with +6kg
• 4 reps with +3kg
• 5 reps with +0kg
(+100 two arm pull ups in 10min later on).

#trainingforclimbing

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 s

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 steps to a quick and easy finger warm up at the crag! 🤌⁣
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1️⃣ Repeater pulls⁣
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Grab a sling and a lifting edge, like the MXEdge Lift or Mini Bar.⁣
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Hook the sling around your foot and complete several reps and sets on each arm, gradually building up the force on each set. ⁣
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The max effort on a single pull should be around 6/10 on the last set. ⁣
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2️⃣ Max hang pulls⁣
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This isn’t actually max effort, but a build-up from a 6/10 effort to an 8/10 effort on each pull. ⁣
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Pull on the same edge in your chosen grip for around 10 seconds and complete a few sets on each arm with more rest between each set. ⁣
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3️⃣ Get Specific ⁣
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Before pulling on, check out the type of holds you will be using on your climb. You can use the same protocol as in step 2 but with different grip types. ⁣
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If there are lots of small crimps on your chosen climb, complete some pulls in a crimp position using a smaller edge.⁣
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If there are lots of pockets on your climb complete the same pulls using 1 or 2 fingers on the hold. ⁣
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➡️ Need a warm-up tool for the season check out the Mx edge on our website for our audience in the USA! @physivantage is the USA based distributor. Link in our bio

📷 Photo by tcpc5525
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#LatticeTraining #WeTrainClimbers #ClimbingWarmUp #FingerStrength

Almost every climber has some interaction with int

Almost every climber has some interaction with interior or exterior forearm pain. A key to mitigating, or preventing this can be deliberate training if the forearm antagonist muscles to counterbalance the usual muscles overused in climbing training. So if you are curious how to train the climbing antagonist muscles in your forearms? Here’s a brief biomechanical overview of the muscle interaction in the forearm. Click the link in bio to watch the entire video for antagonist training on the TFC YouTube channel!

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