Training Cafe Videos - Climbing Training Questions Answered by Coach Hörst

Featured below are three episodes (#58, #59, and #60) of Training Cafe. Coach Hörst answers dozens of viewer questions that cover a wide range of topics from finger training and injuries, to training program design and nutrition. Enjoy!

EPISODE time-stamps below — Scroll down!

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RUNDOWN of Episode #58

(streamed live on March 7, 2022)

1:25 – Sip coffee with coach Hörst – climbers around the world unite!

1:45 – Eric comments on the war in Ukraine.

4:00 – Introduction to The Struggle podcast. Listen here >>

****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
7:00 – For a mainly indoor climber, should I focus on limit climbing (hard bouldering) or doing routes? Eric details the benefits (and possible limitations) of both types of climbing training.

12:20 – Can I do density hangs and max hangs in the same workout?

15:45 – How long after eating breakfast should I wait before consuming pre-workout Supercharged Collagen…in order to maximize the value of this supplement to augment my training?

18:40 – How can I organize my week of workouts to include hangboard, limit bouldering, aerobic threshold training, and some outdoor climbing?

21:10 – I recently hurt my ankle on a fall and I’m wondering how to modify my 4-3-2-1 training cycle to continue to train despite this injury?

24:30 – What’s better…max-weight or min-edge hangboard training?

28:15 – I’m a lower-leg paraclimber and I’m wondering how I can do supplemental training to lose some body weight, despite my physical limitations?

31:21 – Is doing aerobic climbing endurance training the same as aerobic conditioning, and how should I integrated this training into the 4-3-2-1 training cycle?

35:50 – In using a DUP weekly schedule, which type of energy system training should I skip when time is a limiting constraint?

36:50 – What’s the difference between strength-endurance and power-endurance?

42:00 – Any tips on cutting weight?

44:00 – I have arthritis in my big toe…and I’m wondering how this might limit me in the future?

48:00 – I live in California where I can climb outside year around…so I’m wondering how to organize my training without a true off-season period to dedicate to training?

51:00 – Final thoughts.