Category: Training Articles

Training Videos

Training Cafe #83 – 5 Reasons Why Your Climbing Has Plateaued

by Eric Hörst | Mar 17, 2025 | Basic Training, Training Cafe Vodcast, Training Videos

In this video, Coach Hörst details 5 common reasons why climbers climbers hit a plateau. Coach...

Video: Effective Pinch-Grip Training for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Jan 14, 2025 | Train Body, Training Videos
Simple Formula for Success (In Anything!)

by Eric Hörst | Mar 30, 2024 | Train Mind, Train Strategy, Training Videos
Advanced Hangboard Training Techniques for Developing Finger Strength

by Eric Hörst | Sep 21, 2023 | Train Body, Training Videos

Climbing Mastery

15 Bouldering Tips from Climbing Pros

by Lucie Hanes | Apr 28, 2025 | Athlete Spotlights, Climbing Mastery

Want to boulder better? Aiming to level up your V-grade? Then don’t miss these 15 tips from...

Podcast #114 – Common Training Mistakes That May Be Limiting Your Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Apr 10, 2025 | Climbing Mastery, Podcasts
Podcast #50: The 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Mar 22, 2025 | Climbing Mastery, Motivation, Podcasts, Train Mind
T4C Podcast #109: Alex Megos Interviews Eric Hörst (on All Things Performance!)

by Eric Hörst | Dec 13, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Podcasts, Train Body

Basic Training

Podcast #112: Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training & Performance with Dr. Thomas Cunningham

by Eric Hörst | Feb 4, 2025 | Basic Training, Podcasts, Train Body

Lean into this fast-paced podcast with veteran climber and function medicine specialist, Dr....

Podcast #82: 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don’t Want to Make

by Eric Hörst | Dec 10, 2024 | Basic Training, Podcasts, Train Body
Transitioning from Cragging Season to Training Season

by Lucie Hanes | Nov 16, 2024 | Basic Training, Train Body
6 Tips to Naturally Strengthen Your Immune System

by Eric Hörst | Dec 11, 2023 | Basic Training, The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body

Climbing 101

10 Tips for Climbing Better In Cold Weather

by Eric Hörst | Dec 18, 2024 | Climbing 101, Train Strategy

Cold weather climbing can be dreamy…or a nightmare! One person’s “perfect send conditions” can be...

Video: Optimizing Climbing Shoe Fit for Comfort and Performance

by Eric Hörst | Nov 7, 2024 | Climbing 101, Instructional Videos
Podcast #103: Online vs. In-Person Coaching & How Training Has Changed in the Last 40 Years

by Eric Hörst | Sep 5, 2024 | Climbing 101, Podcasts
Podcast #97: Getting a Grip! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance

by Eric Hörst | Aug 25, 2024 | Climbing 101, Podcasts, Train Technique & Skills

Train Body

Training Café #84 – Weekday Training for Weekend Warriors!

by Eric Hörst | Apr 7, 2025 | Train Body, Training Cafe Vodcast

In this live coaching session Eric Hörst details best practices for weekday training in...

Limit Bouldering for Building Max Climbing Strength and Power

by Lucie Hanes | Feb 17, 2025 | Train Body, Train Strategy
Training and Nutritional Influence on Connective Tissue Strength & Injury Risk

by Eric Hörst | Jan 22, 2025 | Nutrition & Recovery, The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body
Training Café #81 – Level Up Your Training in 2025!

by Eric Hörst | Jan 13, 2025 | Train Body, Training Cafe Vodcast

Train Mind

Podcast #113: A Powerful (and Overlooked) Route Climbing Strategy for Leveling Up!

by Eric Hörst | Mar 5, 2025 | Podcasts, Train Mind, Train Strategy, Train Technique & Skills

In this episode, I reveal a powerful — and often overlooked — strategy for developing the mental,...

Podcast #111: Training, Climbing & Life Upgrades to Send 2025!

by Eric Hörst | Jan 7, 2025 | Podcasts, Train Mind, Training Articles
Podcast #107: Tips for Preventing the Punt!

by Eric Hörst | Oct 16, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Podcasts, Train Mind, Train Strategy
10 Mental Strategies to Improve Climbing Performance

by Eric Hörst | Jul 20, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Train Mind

Nutrition & Recovery

Fueling for Sending with Amity Warme, Climbing Dietitian

by Lucie Hanes | Mar 31, 2025 | Athlete Spotlights, Nutrition & Recovery

In climbing, you get out what you put in. That applies not only to what you do in the gym, but...

The Truth About Creatine for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Mar 9, 2025 | Nutrition & Recovery, Training Articles
How to Develop Stronger Fingers and Tendons for Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Nov 21, 2024 | Nutrition & Recovery, Research, Train Body

Motivation

Podcast #95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness

by Eric Hörst | Jan 3, 2024 | Motivation, Podcasts, Train Mind

Do you want to level up in climbing…and across the board in your life? Many folks use the...

Train Technique & Skills

Slowing the Pump Clock: 5 Strategies to Improve Your Climbing Endurance

by Eric Hörst | Jul 1, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Nutrition & Recovery, Train Strategy, Train Technique & Skills

Photo above: Jonathan Horst sending the relentlessly steep Southern Smoke (5.14c), Red River...

5 Tips for Improving Your Climbing Efficiency (and Climbing WAY Harder!)

by Eric Hörst | Oct 16, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Technique & Skills, Training Articles
Climb More Creatively with Alex Megos’ Stretching Routine

by Lucie Hanes | Oct 3, 2023 | Athlete Spotlights, Train Technique & Skills

Training Café #85 – Dealing with Injury (or Illness) on a Climbing Trip!

by Eric Hörst | May 2, 2025 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Training Cafe Vodcast

In this episode of Training Café, coach Hörst discusses how to deal with getting injured or sick...

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Treating “Climber’s Elbow” – Rehab and Prehab Protocol

by Eric Hörst | Apr 18, 2025 | The Hurt Locker (Injury)

Learn how to treat elbow pain associated with tight muscles and sore tendons, often the result of...

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Training Café #80 – Keys to Effective Winter Training & Your Questions Answered!

by Eric Hörst | Dec 9, 2024 | Train Body, Training Cafe Vodcast

In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Hörst details the keys for engaging in an effective...

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An Effective Approach to Climbing Training Through the Holidays!

by Eric Hörst | Dec 7, 2024 | Train Body

The holidays are a busy time of year for almost everyone. Learn a practical approach to training...

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5 Reasons Why Stronger Fingers Equal Better Climbing!

by Eric Hörst | Dec 2, 2024 | Train Body, Training Articles

While climbing remains a skill sport first and foremost, strength in tandem with skill is still an...

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Podcast #108 – 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The Difference In The World!

by Eric Hörst | Nov 11, 2024 | Podcasts, Train Strategy

Quite often it’s the tiniest of things—tactics and strategy—that can make or break your...

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Training Café #79 – Weekend Warrior Climbing Tips

by Eric Hörst | Oct 21, 2024 | Train Strategy, Training Cafe Vodcast

In this episode of the Training Café, Coach Hörst provides tips for weekend warriors wanting to...

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Finger Warm-Ups for Better Climbing (with Reduced Injured Risk)

by Lucie Hanes | Oct 7, 2024 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Training Articles

Fingers feeling stiff and sore, just in time for good send conditions to hit? Warm up right with...

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7 “Last-Minute” Keys to Climbing Your Best When It Counts!

by Eric Hörst | Oct 5, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Train Strategy

Learn seven tips for calming the mind and strengthening the body as you prepare for an important...

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Podcast #104: Kid Climbers: Tips for Raising Happy, Healthy Youth Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Sep 10, 2024 | Podcasts, Youth Training

Photo: Lisa Horst with sons, Jonathan (age 4) and Cameron (age 6) toproping at the Gunks, NY. In...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

#Repost @yannick_flohe . All climbers see crazy st

#Repost @yannick_flohe . All climbers see crazy strength displays like this and wonder how to take a step towards getting there themselves. Surely it will take time (or a lifetime) to do this, but you’ll have to start on the hangboard. Everyone wants stronger fingers but few understands just how to do it right. Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing strength and endurance from the article found in the link in bio!

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My fat ass learning how to hang the @beastmakers 6mm edges 🫨 New Year’s resolution: strong fingers 🤞
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#training#lifting#fitness#beastmaker#fingerboard#motivation#climbing#bouldering#trainingforclimbing

As many aspire to maximize their potential, squeez

As many aspire to maximize their potential, squeeze out every juice of performance, you may wonder what makes the pros so capable at doing this same thing. As you may expect, there are a handful of characteristics and tactics that make the pros, the pros… and you can adopt some yourself. Click the link in bio to hear about tapping into your potential and being like the best in a past but still pertinent episode of the training for climbing podcast!
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#climbing #training #trainingforclimbing

#Repost @thestruggleclimbingshow . Everyone has h

#Repost @thestruggleclimbingshow
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Everyone has heard about building their pyramid, but what does that actually look like on an person to person basis, and how do you balance this with projecting?
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In the recent Road to the Pyramid chat with Coach @eric_horst, I was reminded of the importance of aerobic training even in the “off season”... the lack of which I’ve definitely been feeling as I try longer routes this spring. For more of Eric’s sound wisdom and specific training protocols for route-climbing season, check out the full episode on Spotify, Apple, YouTube, or wherever your pod. Bonus stuff over on Patreon!

Have you checked in with yourself lately about you

Have you checked in with yourself lately about your goals in training and climbing? What about in your life beyond climbing? What’s your destination? How will you get there?
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These questions get answered by Coach Hörst in a quick article and video. Learn about the process of success and how you can fit this formula into your goal! Click the link in Bio to read about it.
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#climbing #training #trainingforclimbing

This is a problem everyone encounters. These tacti

This is a problem everyone encounters. These tactics can only be learned through trial and may be extremely impactful towards your performance. Although the weather is getting warmer out, it is never too late to stay on top of your high end performance strategies. Check it out more in depth in the link in bio.
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#trainingforclimbing #climbing #training

Training Inspo with @alexandermegos 💪🏼 30

Training Inspo with @alexandermegos 💪🏼

30 one arm pull ups:
• 1 rep with +15kg
• 2 reps with +9kg
• 3 reps with +6kg
• 4 reps with +3kg
• 5 reps with +0kg
(+100 two arm pull ups in 10min later on).

#trainingforclimbing

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 s

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 steps to a quick and easy finger warm up at the crag! 🤌⁣
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1️⃣ Repeater pulls⁣
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Grab a sling and a lifting edge, like the MXEdge Lift or Mini Bar.⁣
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Hook the sling around your foot and complete several reps and sets on each arm, gradually building up the force on each set. ⁣
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The max effort on a single pull should be around 6/10 on the last set. ⁣
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2️⃣ Max hang pulls⁣
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This isn’t actually max effort, but a build-up from a 6/10 effort to an 8/10 effort on each pull. ⁣
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Pull on the same edge in your chosen grip for around 10 seconds and complete a few sets on each arm with more rest between each set. ⁣
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3️⃣ Get Specific ⁣
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Before pulling on, check out the type of holds you will be using on your climb. You can use the same protocol as in step 2 but with different grip types. ⁣
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If there are lots of small crimps on your chosen climb, complete some pulls in a crimp position using a smaller edge.⁣
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If there are lots of pockets on your climb complete the same pulls using 1 or 2 fingers on the hold. ⁣
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➡️ Need a warm-up tool for the season check out the Mx edge on our website for our audience in the USA! @physivantage is the USA based distributor. Link in our bio

📷 Photo by tcpc5525
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#LatticeTraining #WeTrainClimbers #ClimbingWarmUp #FingerStrength

Almost every climber has some interaction with int

Almost every climber has some interaction with interior or exterior forearm pain. A key to mitigating, or preventing this can be deliberate training if the forearm antagonist muscles to counterbalance the usual muscles overused in climbing training. So if you are curious how to train the climbing antagonist muscles in your forearms? Here’s a brief biomechanical overview of the muscle interaction in the forearm. Click the link in bio to watch the entire video for antagonist training on the TFC YouTube channel!

🚨NEW PODCAST DROPPED🚨 Training For Climbing

🚨NEW PODCAST DROPPED🚨
Training For Climbing Podcast with Eric Horst and Thomas Cunningham

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- Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training, Podcast #116 -

Lean into this fast-paced podcast with veteran climber and function medicine specialist, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. Learn how to train more effectively, reduce injury risk, pursue your genetic potential in climbing, and much more in this content-rich episode of the Training For Climbing podcast.

This past December, I recorded an interesting conversation with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. Thomas is a veteran climber (with sends up to 5.14c), husband and father of three, and a medical doctor and researcher.

In recent years, Thomas and I have had a number of lively discussions on topics such as functional medicine, health optimization, effective training for middle-aged climbers, and more. It dawned on me one day: Why not record our conversations and release them as a podcast or video! Today, I share with you the first in, I hope, a series of performance-focused conversations between the two of us.

>>You can listen in and/or watch this interview on the T4C podcast (Apple podcasts and Spotify) or the T4C YouTube video.

👉Link in Our Bio!

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