Category: Training Articles

Training Videos

Simple Formula for Success (In Anything!)

by Eric Hörst | Mar 30, 2024 | Train Mind, Train Strategy, Training Videos

Success is subjective. No one can define it for you—and that’s the beauty of it. But with...

Advanced Hangboard Training Techniques for Developing Finger Strength

by Eric Hörst | Sep 21, 2023 | Train Body, Training Videos
Project-Specific Training with Indoor Simulator Problems

by Eric Hörst | Jun 30, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Body, Training Videos
Video: Effective Pinch-Grip Training for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Sep 1, 2022 | Train Body, Training Videos

Climbing Mastery

Podcast #107: Tips for Preventing the Punt!

by Eric Hörst | Oct 16, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Podcasts, Train Mind, Train Strategy

Learn eight tips for climbing your best and preventing the punt! One of the ironies of climbing...

7 “Last-Minute” Keys to Climbing Your Best When It Counts!

by Eric Hörst | Oct 5, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Train Strategy
Podcast #102: The Road to 5.13 – Part 4: Closing the Deal!

by Eric Hörst | Aug 9, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Podcasts
10 Mental Strategies to Improve Climbing Performance

by Eric Hörst | Jul 20, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Train Mind

Basic Training

Transitioning from Cragging Season to Training Season

by Lucie Hanes | Nov 16, 2024 | Basic Training, Train Body

The end of one thing means the beginning of another. Embrace the climbing training season as an...

6 Tips to Naturally Strengthen Your Immune System

by Eric Hörst | Dec 11, 2023 | Basic Training, The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body
At-Home Exercises for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Aug 28, 2023 | Basic Training, Train Body
Tips for (and Benefits of) Climbing Pregnant

by Eric Hörst | Aug 17, 2023 | Basic Training, Climbing 101

Climbing 101

Video: Optimizing Climbing Shoe Fit for Comfort and Performance

by Eric Hörst | Nov 7, 2024 | Climbing 101, Instructional Videos

Learn why you should have two different pairs of climbing shoes with you each time you go to the...

Podcast #103: Online vs. In-Person Coaching & How Training Has Changed in the Last 40 Years

by Eric Hörst | Sep 5, 2024 | Climbing 101, Podcasts
Podcast #97: Getting a Grip! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance

by Eric Hörst | Aug 25, 2024 | Climbing 101, Podcasts, Train Technique & Skills
Level-Up Your Warm-Up Climbs

by Lucie Hanes | Jul 31, 2023 | Climbing 101, Train Technique & Skills

Train Body

How to Develop Stronger Fingers and Tendons for Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Nov 21, 2024 | Nutrition & Recovery, Research, Train Body

Achy tendons and joints are the bane of hard-training athletes. Sound familiar? Learn the...

Podcast 101: Optimizing Training, Health, and Performance with Functional Medicine

by Eric Hörst | Jul 9, 2024 | Nutrition & Recovery, Podcasts, Train Body
Podcast #98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Apr 20, 2024 | Podcasts, Train Body
Free Training Programs for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Apr 10, 2024 | Train Body, Training Articles

Train Mind

“60 Is the New 40” – Fighting Father Time (Lessons from Coach Eric Hörst)

by Lucie Hanes | Feb 15, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights, Train Body, Train Mind, Train Strategy

Age is an undeniable factor in training and sports performance, but the accumulating years don’t...

Podcast #95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness

by Eric Hörst | Jan 3, 2024 | Motivation, Podcasts, Train Mind
Send Your Project Faster Using Beta Visualization

by Lucie Hanes | Nov 3, 2023 | Train Mind
Reframe Your Thoughts to Revamp Your Climbing (and Life)

by Lucie Hanes | Oct 9, 2023 | Train Mind

Nutrition & Recovery

Fueling for Sending with Amity Warme, Climbing Dietitian

by Lucie Hanes | Aug 12, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights, Nutrition & Recovery

In climbing, you get out what you put in. That applies not only to what you do in the gym, but...

Slowing the Pump Clock: 5 Strategies to Improve Your Climbing Endurance

by Eric Hörst | Jul 1, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Nutrition & Recovery, Train Strategy, Train Technique & Skills
Training & Wellness Podcast for the Aging Athlete Striving for Peak Performance

by Eric Hörst | Apr 9, 2024 | Nutrition & Recovery, Podcasts

Motivation

Effective Goal Setting for Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Sep 25, 2023 | Motivation, Train Mind

Goals are the ultimate motivator. Learn the process of effective goal setting for climbing to...

Train Technique & Skills

5 Tips for Improving Your Climbing Efficiency (and Climbing WAY Harder!)

by Eric Hörst | Oct 16, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Technique & Skills, Training Articles

Climbing harder isn’t always about working harder. Learn five techniques to help improve...

Climb More Creatively with Alex Megos’ Stretching Routine

by Lucie Hanes | Oct 3, 2023 | Athlete Spotlights, Train Technique & Skills
Develop Fantastic Footwork with Heel-Hook and Toe-Hook Technique

by Lucie Hanes | Sep 18, 2023 | Train Technique & Skills

Podcast #108 – 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The Difference In The World!

by Eric Hörst | Nov 11, 2024 | Podcasts, Train Strategy

Quite often it’s the tiniest of things—tactics and strategy—that can make or break your...

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Training Café #79 – Weekend Warrior Climbing Tips

by Eric Hörst | Oct 21, 2024 | Train Strategy, Training Cafe Vodcast

In this episode of the Training Café, Coach Hörst provides tips for weekend warriors wanting to...

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Finger Warm-Ups for Better Climbing (with Reduced Injured Risk)

by Lucie Hanes | Oct 7, 2024 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Training Articles

Fingers feeling stiff and sore, just in time for good send conditions to hit? Warm up right with...

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Podcast #104: Kid Climbers: Tips for Raising Happy, Healthy Youth Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Sep 10, 2024 | Podcasts, Youth Training

Photo: Lisa Horst with sons, Jonathan (age 4) and Cameron (age 6) toproping at the Gunks, NY. In...

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Projecting 101 – 6 Tips to Sending Your Project!

by Eric Hörst | Jul 10, 2024 | Train Strategy, Training Articles

There’s no better feeling than the victory of a hard send. But behind every hard send is...

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10 Do’s and Don’ts for Effective Redpoint Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Jun 27, 2024 | Train Strategy, Training Articles

Projecting is all about long-term investment, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t...

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T4C Podcast #100: Ten Secrets to Climbing Harder!

by Eric Hörst | Jun 11, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Podcasts

No matter your current experience or level of climbing, I guarantee that you will find this...

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How to Improve Gut Health for Climbing Performance

by Lucie Hanes | Mar 15, 2024 | Nutrition & Recovery

I’ve been living with chronic stomach pain for years—but I didn’t need to be. Steal my...

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5 Campus Board Exercises to Train Contact Strength for Climbing

by Lucie Hanes | Mar 1, 2024 | Train Body

There’s a difference between the strength it takes to initiate a move and the strength it...

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Power-Endurance Training Protocols for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Feb 20, 2024 | Train Body

Learn how to increase your power-endurance with five proven training protocols for powering-up and...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

Training while on climbing trips? If you’re in a

Training while on climbing trips? If you’re in a prolonged climbing trip, how do you balance maintaining high end strength/power while also staying fresh and maximizing outdoor days? There are a few circumstances where you can add in some training to stay in top strength. First, If you get a period of poor weather, rather than resting for multiple days, throw in a training session where you can focus on some areas not touched outside (perhaps bouldering, max fingers, isometrics, or power). Another option is at the end of a day where you did not get a full outdoor workout in, and are leading into a rest day. This gives the opportunity to finish your day with a challenging workout before a coming rest day. In this video Alex takes advantage of a rainy day at the Red River Gorge training max finger strength to stay primed for pulling hard on an outdoor project!
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#climb #training #trainingforclimbing #trainingtips #climbing

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training season is coming in hit. Everyone wants to maximize their outdoor sessions but the winter is a great opportunity to build up for what is to come in the spring. Check out the new T4C article and learn how to build a winter routine and what are important focuses Ik following an outdoor stint. Click the link in bio for Transitioning from Cragging to Training!
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#climbing #climb #trainingforclimbing #tranining

Are you at the point in your climbing where you ar

Are you at the point in your climbing where you are ready to begin hangboarding, or want a new protocol to check out? If you’ve been climbing long enough and feel ready to begin a higher end workout you are in the right place. A detailed one arm, and 2 arm protocol is outlined on the Training for Climbing website. So check out the article and the associated videos in the Advanced Hangboarding link in bio!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbing #hangboarding #physivantage

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast d

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast dropped today! In this episode Coach Hörst talks about 13 actionable tactics and strategies that play a huge role in your climbing performance. Ranging from personal control of your body, to timing and mentality. Check out the link in bio to access the podcast or listen wherever you find your episodes.
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#trainingforclimbingpodcast #climb #climbing #training

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my r

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my rucksack. This is the first in a new series of “Quick Tips” — subscribe to the Training For Climbing channel for notice of future videos!

👉Watch video at the link in our bio!

#climbingtraining #climbing #performance La Sportiva

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs climbing days. Whether that means more goes on a project, more threshold for an individual route, or simply more pitches in a day. The question is how do you know to focus on this style of climbing while training or while climbing outside? It is critical to understand the difference between the aerobic and anaerobic energy system. Check out the link in bio for Anaerobic vs Aerobic training!
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#climb #climbing #trainingforclimbing #training

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certa

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certain Mondays Coach Hörst hosts a live training cafe on the train gìn for climbing YouTube Channel! Check out the posting from this week and tune in for future episodes to get your climbing/training/performance questions answered!
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#training #climbing #trainingforclimbing #trainingcafe

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast with Coach Hörst! Episode 107 focuses on dialing in your game in the final days leading up to your projecting season. A primary focus of this podcast is how to prevent the pun, which we all know you need! Check it out wherever you get your podcasts, and leave a review!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbingpodcast

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on sloper nuances!
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👊 Sloper Stress: Key Insights for Climbers 👊

If you’ve been climbing for a while, you know that using slopers requires significantly more friction (indicated by the pink shading) compared to other types of holds. The greater the skin surface area in contact with the hold, the better you can apply downward force.

Slopers are designed with a downward slope and often lack sharp edges, which means your fingers are positioned at wider angles. This wider angle, viewed through the lens of the length-tension relationship (how muscle length affects its strength), is not ideal for generating force.

In this position, your wrist is more “passive” and stretched compared to when you’re gripping smaller, flatter holds. In contrast, when your wrist is in a flexed position (like in a half or full crimp), the length-tension relationship of your finger and wrist flexors improves, allowing for better force generation.

Due to the shape of slopers, climbers depend more on passive structures such as joint capsules, ligaments, and titin to maintain balance below the hands. Once skin contact is lost, the wrist flexes to create a plumb line (indicated by the green arrow) underneath. This flexed position places significant stress on the wrist’s ligaments.

Now, consider that the average strain on wrist ligaments increases when a climber is fatigued. As you tire, your muscles become less effective at protecting the joint, putting even more strain on the ligaments.

Actionable Takeaways:

1. Vary Your Holds: Regularly change the types of holds you use during practice.

2. No Added Weight: Focus on developing your skill with slopers without adding extra weight.

3. Strength Training: Incorporate exercises to improve forearm strength and recruitment.

4. Know When to Stop: End your climbing session when you notice a drop in coordination.

By following these guidelines, you can enhance your performance while minimizing the risk of injury.

#rockclimbing #climbingtraining #climbingperformance #climbstrong #climbingdoctor #usaclimbing #performanceclimbingcoach #ifsc #wristinjury #training4climbing #climbinglife

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