Category: Train Strategy

Podcast #108 – 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The ...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Nov 11, 2024 | Podcasts, Train Strategy

Training Café #79 – Weekend Warrior Climbing...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Oct 21, 2024 | Train Strategy, Training Cafe Vodcast

Podcast #107: Tips for Preventing the Punt!

Posted by Eric Hörst | Oct 16, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Podcasts, Train Mind, Train Strategy

7 “Last-Minute” Keys to Climbing Your ...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Oct 5, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Train Strategy

Projecting 101 – 6 Tips to Sending Your Proj...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jul 10, 2024 | Train Strategy, Training Articles

Slowing the Pump Clock: 5 Strategies to Improve Yo...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jul 1, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Nutrition & Recovery, Train Strategy, Train Technique & Skills

10 Do’s and Don’ts for Effective Redpoint Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Jun 27, 2024 | Train Strategy, Training Articles

Projecting is all about long-term investment, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t...

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Simple Formula for Success (In Anything!)

by Eric Hörst | Mar 30, 2024 | Train Mind, Train Strategy, Training Videos

Success is subjective. No one can define it for you—and that’s the beauty of it. But with...

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“60 Is the New 40” – Fighting Father Time (Lessons from Coach Eric Hörst)

by Lucie Hanes | Feb 15, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights, Train Body, Train Mind, Train Strategy

Age is an undeniable factor in training and sports performance, but the accumulating years don’t...

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Power Bouldering for Dynamic Drive on the Wall

by Lucie Hanes | Dec 6, 2023 | Train Body, Train Strategy

Learn how to improve your dynamic output in climbing via power bouldering: a specific approach to...

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Podcast #94 – The Road to Climbing 5.13a – PART 3

by Eric Hörst | Dec 4, 2023 | Podcasts, Train Strategy

What’s it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you’ll hear my...

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Limit Bouldering for Building Max Climbing Strength and Power

by Lucie Hanes | Nov 27, 2023 | Train Body, Train Strategy

Increase your strength and power this training season by including limit bouldering in your...

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Podcast #91 – Climbing Your First 5.13a (Ryan Devlin Consult #2)

by Eric Hörst | Sep 11, 2023 | Podcasts, Train Strategy

What’s it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you’ll hear my...

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Tips for an Effective First Effort on a Climbing Project

by Lucie Hanes | Jun 2, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Strategy

Don’t try to tackle a new project the same way you would an onsight attempt. If you’re...

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T4C Podcast #87: The Making of a “Surprise” Hardest-Ever Send! (and the question “Why do we climb?”)

by Eric Hörst | May 9, 2023 | Podcasts, Train Mind, Train Strategy

Learn some of the mental, technical, and tactical tips that helped bring to fruition an unplanned...

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How Coach Eric Hörst (Quickly) Sent Kaleidoscope, 5.13c, After Injury

by Lucie Hanes | May 8, 2023 | Athlete Spotlights, Send Videos, Train Strategy

Coach Eric Hörst, 59, made the most of a finger injury by letting go of expectations, changing up...

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The “10-4″ Rule for Projecting Sport Climbs

by Eric Hörst | Apr 24, 2023 | Train Strategy, Training Articles

Becoming a better sport climber demands a proper balance of improving your skills and pushing...

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Cameron Hörst’s Proven Strategy for Endurance Training

by Lucie Hanes | Apr 14, 2023 | Train Strategy

Learn from Cameron Hörst’s strategic approach to working on his weaknesses, improving his...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
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Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training season is coming in hit. Everyone wants to maximize their outdoor sessions but the winter is a great opportunity to build up for what is to come in the spring. Check out the new T4C article and learn how to build a winter routine and what are important focuses Ik following an outdoor stint. Click the link in bio for Transitioning from Cragging to Training!
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#climbing #climb #trainingforclimbing #tranining

Are you at the point in your climbing where you ar

Are you at the point in your climbing where you are ready to begin hangboarding, or want a new protocol to check out? If you’ve been climbing long enough and feel ready to begin a higher end workout you are in the right place. A detailed one arm, and 2 arm protocol is outlined on the Training for Climbing website. So check out the article and the associated videos in the Advanced Hangboarding link in bio!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbing #hangboarding #physivantage

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast d

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast dropped today! In this episode Coach Hörst talks about 13 actionable tactics and strategies that play a huge role in your climbing performance. Ranging from personal control of your body, to timing and mentality. Check out the link in bio to access the podcast or listen wherever you find your episodes.
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#trainingforclimbingpodcast #climb #climbing #training

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my r

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my rucksack. This is the first in a new series of “Quick Tips” — subscribe to the Training For Climbing channel for notice of future videos!

👉Watch video at the link in our bio!

#climbingtraining #climbing #performance La Sportiva

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs climbing days. Whether that means more goes on a project, more threshold for an individual route, or simply more pitches in a day. The question is how do you know to focus on this style of climbing while training or while climbing outside? It is critical to understand the difference between the aerobic and anaerobic energy system. Check out the link in bio for Anaerobic vs Aerobic training!
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#climb #climbing #trainingforclimbing #training

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certa

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certain Mondays Coach Hörst hosts a live training cafe on the train gìn for climbing YouTube Channel! Check out the posting from this week and tune in for future episodes to get your climbing/training/performance questions answered!
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#training #climbing #trainingforclimbing #trainingcafe

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast with Coach Hörst! Episode 107 focuses on dialing in your game in the final days leading up to your projecting season. A primary focus of this podcast is how to prevent the pun, which we all know you need! Check it out wherever you get your podcasts, and leave a review!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbingpodcast

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on sloper nuances!
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👊 Sloper Stress: Key Insights for Climbers 👊

If you’ve been climbing for a while, you know that using slopers requires significantly more friction (indicated by the pink shading) compared to other types of holds. The greater the skin surface area in contact with the hold, the better you can apply downward force.

Slopers are designed with a downward slope and often lack sharp edges, which means your fingers are positioned at wider angles. This wider angle, viewed through the lens of the length-tension relationship (how muscle length affects its strength), is not ideal for generating force.

In this position, your wrist is more “passive” and stretched compared to when you’re gripping smaller, flatter holds. In contrast, when your wrist is in a flexed position (like in a half or full crimp), the length-tension relationship of your finger and wrist flexors improves, allowing for better force generation.

Due to the shape of slopers, climbers depend more on passive structures such as joint capsules, ligaments, and titin to maintain balance below the hands. Once skin contact is lost, the wrist flexes to create a plumb line (indicated by the green arrow) underneath. This flexed position places significant stress on the wrist’s ligaments.

Now, consider that the average strain on wrist ligaments increases when a climber is fatigued. As you tire, your muscles become less effective at protecting the joint, putting even more strain on the ligaments.

Actionable Takeaways:

1. Vary Your Holds: Regularly change the types of holds you use during practice.

2. No Added Weight: Focus on developing your skill with slopers without adding extra weight.

3. Strength Training: Incorporate exercises to improve forearm strength and recruitment.

4. Know When to Stop: End your climbing session when you notice a drop in coordination.

By following these guidelines, you can enhance your performance while minimizing the risk of injury.

#rockclimbing #climbingtraining #climbingperformance #climbstrong #climbingdoctor #usaclimbing #performanceclimbingcoach #ifsc #wristinjury #training4climbing #climbinglife

If you missed it, check out episode 102 of the Tra

If you missed it, check out episode 102 of the Training For Climbing podcast. This episode, released a few months ago is the fourth iteration of the road to 5.13 for @thestruggleclimbingshow . Ryan has been inching closer to his goal of 13a and hopefully this fall it goes down! Give this episode a listen for some coaching that you can apply to your own projects this season! Click the link in bio to find it, or listen wherever you get podcasts!
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#climb #training #trainingforclimbing #fallclimbing #climbing

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